IN STUDIO with Noskra – ep.5

IN STUDIO with Noskra – ep.5

Anna Frattini · 3 months ago · Style

For the fifth episode of IN STUDIO, we went to the province of Brescia, to Offlaga. We entered the world of Noskra, and together with the Founder, Andrea Lonigro, we discovered more about the birth of his brand and his studio. Born in 2020, this is a project unlike others. The collections encompass a complete wardrobe: hoodies, shirts, pants, and oversized bombers that we can see worn by many Italian musicians. The connection with music is central and was frequently revisited during our meeting with Lonigro. Elisa, Joan Thiele, Studio Murena, Quentin 40, and Guido Cagiva are just a few of the italian artists who wear Noskra, and the impact on stage is always significant. The reason lies in the desire to unite art, design, music, and fashion.

The studio

We are in Offlaga, in the Brescia countryside. The studio where Noskra’s collections are produced is right here, and many professionals are involved. Tailors and craftsmen carefully follow the garment assembly process in this space, which also houses other workshops. It’s a place different from what we’re used to in our IN STUDIO series, making us reconsider the way we experience the workspace. Andrea Lonigro’s work is divided into multiple spaces, and by visiting this workshop, we find ourselves in the place where the magic of garment production happens.

I would like you to tell me a bit about your brand, how it was born, and the direction it has taken over time.

The brand officially came to life in 2020. In the period before that, I was shuttling between Bari and Moscow, an experience reflected in the brutalism of some prints that define the aesthetics and imagery of Noskra. The realization of this project coincided with my start in a workshop very similar to this one. The first two collections were nothing more than a presentation of what would later become the stylistic signature and aesthetic of Noskra. This led to various activations, such as participation in Pitti—a great surprise and, above all, a beautiful learning experience. From here, the first contacts with buyers emerged, culminating in our appearance at Revolver in Copenhagen, which brought us to where we are today.

What materials and textures do you prefer?

Each collection unfolds in two interconnected worlds. One originates from a print that spans multiple pieces. The concept is consistently brutalist compared to the monochromatic side of the collection. Simpler fabrics are usually reserved for more intricate prints, while the more technical fabrics lack this characteristic. Cotton or cotton drill, and wool, tend to be kept cleaner and more minimal compared to others. This is done to create a recognizable aesthetic linked to the identity of Noskra.

What item cannot be missing in your studio?

A speaker. Music is essential to fuel my creativity.

How do you relate to your studio? How do you experience it? Is it exclusively a workspace, or also a communal space to meet friends or other designers or artists?

I approach the studio as a nomad. It all starts from the intimacy of home and then moves my creativity to spaces more suitable for the work of a fashion designer.

How long have you been in this studio? Are you attached to it, or do you have a more nomadic conception of your workplace? Would you leave tomorrow?

It took some time to adapt my working style to the nomadic approach we were discussing earlier. Having a unique and defined space was restricting and limiting for me in a way. Now, being more nomadic, I feel more comfortable expressing my ideas. We still have a smaller workshop where we start from a more homemade reality, while here, production is on a larger scale.

How do you build a collection? Where do you start? Can you tell us about your creative process?

At Noskra, we rarely follow trends and micro-trends. I often find inspiration in what people are wearing and then adapt it to what I like to create and my personal tastes. We start with well-defined structures that I am still working on. We already have new silhouettes ready for the future. From the early stages of conceiving the collection, I begin researching with the suppliers I am accustomed to working with. Once the order is placed, we start the sampling and production process. We work with suppliers who provide fabric and certifications, explaining the fiber production process. This is an aspect that we, as a brand, don’t communicate efficiently ourselves. The idea of working with sustainable fabrics stems from the desire to do something proactive for environmental conservation. Certifying the origin of the fibers we use is crucial for Noskra.

What are you currently working on? What are your future projects?

The goal today is to improve and continue learning, growing in the fields of research and sustainability. We want to expand into knitwear, for example. It’s no secret that, in addition to this, we aim to become more international. We follow a distinctly North European taste. We definitely have in mind to present the new collection in a different way than the presentations done so far. Our intention, however, is to refresh the customer’s approach to purchasing and to get them more interested in everything behind the creation of a garment. We need to be bold to push forward these kinds of openness initiatives.

ph. courtesy Andrés Juan Suarez

IN STUDIO with Noskra – ep.5
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Has food truly conquered us?

Has food truly conquered us?

Anna Frattini · 2 months ago · Photography

Over the past year, the internet seems to be obsessed with food culture, fueling a trend that is now evident even in the world of visual culture. From the Tomato Girl Summer, which many mock retrospectively, to the foodie fashion girlies, Balenciaga’s collaboration with Erewhon, and the massive success of The Bear. Food appears to be experiencing a rebirth, but in the worlds of art, photography, and design, it has always been present. Is this just a passing trend, or is it the glorification of an element that has always been part of our lives?

Un’illustrazione di Maisy Summer

From Tomato Girl Summer to the pomegranate

It was only in 2020, with lockdown recipes—does anyone remember Dalgona Coffe?—that so much talk about food emerged. On TikTok, @wishbonekitchen made us dream by showing us her life as a private chef in the Hamptons this summer. Unforgettable were her Heirloom Tomato Gallette and the garden where she harvested fruits, vegetables, and herbs. In 2023, it seems to have been the summer of food not only with the release of the second season of The Bear but also with Tomato Girl Summer. On the other hand, according to Danielle Cohen on The Cut, it now seems to be the time of the pomegranate.

 
 
 
 
 
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Un post condiviso da Cansu Porsuk Rossi (@cansupo)

Thanks to its shape and the vivid red that characterizes it, this fruit is widely recognized as a symbol of fertility in many parts of the world. But not only that, we find the pomegranate in mythology, art history, and, according to Cohen, even in the Torah. In short, fruits and vegetables seem to be largely protagonists of this rebirth, so we have collected some works and photographs by artists and photographers we have talked about in the past and more.

Browsing through our archives, we remembered Michael Crichton‘s photos and his photographic series, Conceptual Food, as well as Dan Bannino, who many years ago narrated the eating habits of the powerful. But there is also Stephanie Sarley, an artist who, with fruit fingering, challenged the way the art world has represented the female reproductive organ throughout its history.

 
 
 
 
 
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Un post condiviso da Stephanie Sarley (@stephanie_sarley)

Why it seems not to be just a passing trend

The success of food in visual culture can be attributed to its tangible communicative power. We see and experience the colors and textures of food daily, all evocative elements of memories that we have been collecting forever. In conclusion, we can only wonder which will be the next fruit to receive all this attention, already dedicated to tomatoes and pomegranates, even before avocados and bananas.

Has food truly conquered us?
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Has food truly conquered us?
Has food truly conquered us?
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Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots

Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots

Anna Frattini · 2 months ago · Photography

29 ARTS IN PROGRESS recently showcased Michel Haddi: Beyond Fashion, a photographic exhibition dedicated to the Franco-Algerian photographer, marking his first solo exhibition in Milan. Starting from January 16, the second chapter of this exhibition opens, featuring unconventional shots infused with a street and urban soul. Additionally, there are elements of irony and sensuality that highlight Haddi’s complex personality.

michel haddi
© Michel Haddi – Debbie Harry, British Vogue, London, 1994 | Courtesy of 29 ARTS IN PROGRESS gallery

In this second chapter, nude shots and unpublished works by Michel Haddi are presented, stemming from advertising campaigns he personally captured. The displayed photographs capture the spirit of their time, thanks to influential figures such as John Galliano or Patsy Kensit, who have played pivotal roles in the realms of fashion, cinema, and music.

Michel Haddi has the ability to portray his subjects with both irony and depth, and each of his shots tells a unique story. His life, marked by a turbulent start, has nevertheless propelled him to become one of the leading fashion photographers from the 1990s to the present day.

Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots
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Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots
Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots
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Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography

Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography

Collater.al Contributors · 1 month ago · Photography

A few weeks ago, the Huxley-Parlour gallery in London announced the new exhibition by Joel Meyerowitz, which opened on January 17th. We couldn’t help but talk about him, the American photographer born in New York in 1938, famous for his street photography, and recognized as one of the pioneers of color photography. The London exhibition, titled “Dialogues,” highlights this aspect effectively. Pairs of photographs engage in a dialogue concerning light, color, and composition. The pairings are chosen to investigate the development of color in the artist’s work, set within non-hierarchical and unresolved compositions.

The exhibition in London

Meyerowitz’s imagery blends a distinctly American aesthetic with a meditative approach to color. Spanning from 1964 to 2011, the exhibition at Huxley-Parlour reveals Meyerowitz’s enduring interest in the sensory and evocative experiences of his surroundings. Paired with lesser-known images from the artist’s extensive archive, the exhibition features some of Meyerowitz’s most famous works, including his early street photography and images from his seminal series, Cape Light.

Joel Meyerowitz and the Color Revolution

Joel Meyerowitz is widely acknowledged as one of the first photographers, along with William Eggleston and Stephen Shore, to bring color photography from the periphery to the center of fine art photography. Historically, where black and white photography was considered a serious medium, color was widely viewed as technically inferior and aesthetically limited, relegated to advertising campaigns, television, and personal holiday photographs. In the London exhibition, it’s interesting to trace Meyerowitz’s shift from black and white to color. On display are works from “A Question of Color,” where Meyerowitz, carrying two cameras, paired black-and-white and color prints of nearly identical scenes.

Courtesy Joel Meyerowitz

Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography
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Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography
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A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi

A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi

Giulia Guido · 1 month ago · Photography

Not even a week ago, Alessia Glaviano – Head of Global PhotoVogue – a guest on our Spigola podcast, reminded us that it no longer matters whether you shoot with a camera or a smartphone. What matters is the intention behind the shot, not the means. We pondered deeply on this statement, and although there was initially some skepticism, we concluded that to take a true stance on the matter, we had to try it ourselves: capturing moments solely with a smartphone, but with the same attitude we would have had with a professional camera. Xiaomi provided us with the opportunity and the means.

Almost by chance, Xiaomi presented us with a challenge: to visit a distant place and attempt to capture its uniqueness using the brand-new Redmi Note 13 Pro+ 5G. And so began our journey, short but very intense, in Bangkok.

All the promises of this new device – which, along with four others, forms the new Redmi Note 13 Series, further enriching the brand’s Redmi Note lineup – were substantial. Starting from the battery, rechargeable to 100% in just 19 minutes with a lasting capacity of days (not hours), and of course, the camera system consisting of 3 cameras, including a main 200 MP camera, an ultra-wide-angle camera, and a macro camera.

We decided to put Xiaomi to the test in every moment spent in the Thai capital. The first stop was at the Royal Palace and the Wat Pho temple, where the goal was to capture the colors of the mosaics and decorations.

Xiaomi

Being one of the most touristy places in the city, we encountered many people who, like us, were fascinated by the architecture of these sacred places. The Redmi Note 13 Pro+ 5G came to our aid in this moment as well. The smartphone is equipped with AI-based editing tools that, among other things, allow us to remove people who accidentally end up in our shots. You know those photos you see on Instagram of tourist spots always empty? Now you can have them too, effortlessly!

But a city is not only visited during the day; often, it comes to life at night, illuminated by a myriad of different lights. In our case, the lights were those of the legendary tuk-tuks, indispensable in a trip to Bangkok. In this case, the challenge was formidable: darkness, colored lights, movement. All the ingredients for a challenging shot were present.

Xiaomi

Not content with just the shot, we continued to play with AI tools and added a bit more movement, some stars, many stars.

When traveling, we know very well that we are not only captivated by architecture, landscape, and glimpses, but we also focus on the faces we encounter on the streets. However, we often don’t have much time to photograph them, sometimes because they move, other times because we are the ones on the move. That’s exactly what happened to us in the characteristic Thai markets, first and foremost the Floating Market.

Reviewing the photos on the return flight and at home with friends was like reliving the journey once again, leaving no detail behind.

Xiaomi

In Bangkok, on the occasion of the launch of the new Redmi Note 13 Series, the brand also introduced the brand-new Redmi Watch 4 and Redmi Buds 5 Pro. Visit Xiaomi’s website to discover all the features of these devices.

Xiaomi

Photos shot on Xiaomi Redmi Note 13 Pro+ 5G

A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi
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A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi
A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi
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