“Man Ray and Fashion” is the exhibition, open until August 13th at the MoMu Fashion Museum in Antwerp, Belgium, which tells the story of the American artist and photographer’s relationship with the world of fashion. It’s a perfect opportunity to explore the history of Man Ray through his photographs taken for brands such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Chanel, and magazines like Harper’s Bazaar, Vanity Fair, and Vogue.
The exhibition focuses on Man Ray’s photographs from the 1920s to the 1930s, totaling nearly 200 images. We see the innovative strength of Man Ray in his humor, his refusal to take himself too seriously, and his ingenuity. This strategy has radically changed the perception of the garments he photographed through his unique point of view. His experimentation, combined with the power of Surrealism, brought him closer to fashion photography in a completely unconventional way. The field of fashion design, even today, continues to be influenced by him.
Man Ray’s experimentation is reflected in various photographic techniques showcased at MoMu, such as stark shadowing, solarization, and rayographs. The exhibition in Antwerp not only displays fashion photography but also features garments inspired by his works. These clothes have been sourced from fashion houses’ archives, including Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Martin Margiela, Diers Van Noten, Olivier Theyskens, and LOEWE. Interestingly, many of these fashion houses are Belgian, which is not surprising considering the avant-garde nature that characterizes the country’s history.
“Man Ray and Fashion” was initially presented in Marseille in 2019, then moved to Paris from 2020 before finally arriving in Antwerp, where it was adapted to include references to the contemporary Belgian fashion design scene. This exhibition reveals a lesser-known aspect of Man Ray, that of a fashion photographer. It was a highly lucrative activity for the artist and made a significant impact on the fashion world, despite his dissent towards the system, resulting in an extensive body of work.
In conclusion, the operation by the MoMu Fashion Museum highlights the influence of Surrealism on the works of some Belgian fashion designers, such as Ann Demeulemeester and Diers Van Noten, who are part of the Antwerp 6. It does so in an innovative way, leaving ample room for Man Ray’s humor. He was always committed to not taking the fashion world too seriously, a fact that undoubtedly made him a precursor to Andy Warhol.
