Style Nigo and the History of Streetwear
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Nigo and the History of Streetwear

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Anna Frattini

Nigo, born Tomoaki Nagao on December 23, 1970, is one of the most influential Japanese designers. One of his most significant achievements in the fashion world is the creation of A Bathing Ape (BAPE), a brand that would redefine the landscape of streetwear. His love for hip-hop and its surrounding culture, his early days in Tokyo, and the friendships he formed along the way have propelled him far. Today, as the Creative Director of Kenzo (since 2021), he holds a special place in the fashion world. Just a few months ago, he was in the spotlight for his collaboration with Nike, and more recently for his partnership with Mercedes-Benz.

Founded in 1993, BAPE became an icon of streetwear by blending Japanese craftsmanship with hip-hop culture. The brand’s strategy, based on a scarcity model that met only 10% of demand, helped create an unprecedented aura of desirability, making it a forerunner of modern hype culture. In the 1990s, BAPE collaborated with brands like Pepsi and caught the attention of cultural icons such as Notorious B.I.G., Kanye West, and Pharrell Williams. The latter, a close friend of Nigo, co-launched brands like Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream with him.

Nigo’s journey began in 1980s Tokyo, where he studied at Bunka Fashion College, aspiring to become a fashion journalist. However, it was the connections he made in Harajuku’s nightlife, rather than academia, that shaped his future. Among his early friendships were Hiroshi Fujiwara, considered the father of Japanese streetwear, and Jun Takahashi, the future founder of Undercover. Thanks to Fujiwara, Nigo began working as a stylist for Popeye magazine, a name that had already piqued his interest in fashion during his youth. The nickname “Nigo,” meaning “number two,” was Fujiwara’s idea, inspired by their physical and creative similarities.

After leaving BAPE in 2011, Nigo founded Human Made, a brand with a vintage aesthetic that prioritizes craftsmanship and quality. His talent was recognized by luxury giant LVMH, which appointed him Creative Director of Kenzo in 2021. At Kenzo, Nigo blends the DNA of streetwear with the heritage of the French maison, showcasing how his approach can evolve while remaining true to its roots.

Nigo’s career exemplifies how streetwear can rise to become a global cultural phenomenon. With a trajectory that includes collaborations with Louis Vuitton, Uniqlo, and countless other brands, he has transformed his passion into a creative empire, continuing to influence design and inspire new generations.

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Written by Anna Frattini

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