Maybe it’s because we’re dreamers, maybe it’s because our meteoropathy it’s worsened over the years, but summer seems to have dragged on slowly, followed by a long echo that has continued to cling strongly to desires and nostalgia.
So, in a weekend of full autumn, we decided to look at the sea once again, this time from the cliffs of Liguria, among the colorful villages of Cinque Terre.
Sparkling air, sunshine in the clouds, our Lumix and a schizophrenic luggage made of sweatshirts, raincoats and shorts. Music.
We leave on a Saturday morning for Monterosso al Mare, the most populous of the five towns, descending from Milan to Genoa. The road is not so long, but once we enter Liguria we will be accompanied by thousands of hairpin bends that will make it look like an endless journey.
Along the way, we stop at Framura, a small village that lies within one of the many coves of the eastern Ligurian Riviera. After an impeccable lunch on the seaside, we rent bikes for a walk along the Ciclopedonale Maremonti (a cycle and pedestrian path), a 5 km long route between Levanto and Framura, which runs along the tracks of the old railway.
The cycle track runs through tunnels and sudden glimpses of the cliffs. It opens and closes, between escapes and cloves of heaven. We stop on Bonassola beach to touch the sea and watch the covered boats.
We arrive in Monterosso which is already dark.
The next day we wake up early. Our room has a window that looks out to the sea and we have breakfast, it looks like September.
We get back on our Countryman, between hairpin bends and breathtaking cliffs. If the weather had been less cloudy and we had had a few more days, we would have ventured among one of the various paths of the National Park that, like a spider web, connect not only the five villages but also the hinterland.
The first village to which we run is Vernazza. The myriad of tourists don’t prevent us from falling in love with it. Set in a small bay, it’s characterized all around by terraces for the vines cultivation crossed by muleteer. We just need to get up a little bit to stay open-mouthed. To photograph it, we turn around it, first by following the path towards Monterosso to the right of the village and then the path towards Corniglia, which goes up to the left. Each perspective gives us a different image.
The clouds are low when we get back by car to Manarola. We arrive in time to see the last light and watch one of the most suggestive sunsets ever seen. Overlooking the small village of colorful houses, perched on a dark cliff, the sky is transformed: from grey and blue it becomes purple and then fire red, with the sea that seems to burn and the clouds charged with hundreds of shades.
We remain hypnotized.
We’ll wait for for the magic to end up as drunk. In a short time it’s dark, and the village becomes different, still beautiful, with the windows of the houses that brighten and make it shine.
We go back exhausted in our cars, as if we were just awake. The road is long up to home and we don’t want to get out of bed.
WHERE TO EAT
L’Agave – Framura
Ristorante Miky – Monterosso
WHERE TO SLEEP
La Serra Sul Mare – Monterosso