Style The “Cyber” collection of 1995 by Jean-Paul Gaultier

The “Cyber” collection of 1995 by Jean-Paul Gaultier

Andrea Tuzio

Last April 24th the French couturier Jean-Paul Gaultier turned 69 years old. 
To pay homage to him we decided to go back in time and rediscover one of the most incredible collections and shows in the history of fashion, the one dedicated to the Fall/Winter 1995 “Cyber” collection.

Gaultier was one of the first designers to combine technology and fashion in an important way, perceiving the importance of this union for the development of the fashion world itself.
All this long before the fanaticism linked to technology for the arrival of the new millennium, deflagrated definitively.

That collection represented a sort of apocalyptic vision of the future mixed perfectly with the entirely personal approach Gaultier put into everything he made.
The most iconic looks were computer-drawn, dot-printed bodysuits, whose shades of color were used to outline a woman’s silhouette thanks to a perfect optical effect. Gaultier was inspired by the work of Victor Vasarely, “the French godfather of Op Art”.

To create this collection, the French couturier made a lot of reference to the world of cinema, in fact the 1995 show was called “Mad Max” by some insiders – although Gaultier himself said it would be more accurate to say “Mad Maxette” – after George Miller’s dystopian, apocalyptic and post-apocalyptic tetralogy that began in 1979 and ended with “Mad Max: Fury Road” in 2015.

The entire collection was intended for a woman defined as an Amazon, “courageous, self-confident and very much in control of her life”, as declared by the French designer himself and with a distinct femininity, emphasized by two pregnant models who walked the runway, Claudia Huidobro and Estelle Lefébure.

The show was held in a dark and bare industrial space, full of people, and began with a cloud of smoke enveloping the entrance to the catwalk through which a motorcycle suddenly emerged. The passenger/model of the motorcycle in question got off and climbed the scaffolding that formed the set of the show, and that was just the beginning: model Carmen Dell’Orefice walked down the runway with a hawk tied to her wrist while at the end the models paraded in nylon dresses padded with hair dryers that inflated the matching headgear.

The “master of chaos”, as Vogue defined him, created a show that connected past, present and future in a historical and cultural context in which the spasmodic “expectation” of a futuristic future left the past “behind” and almost forgot about it. Gaultier, on the other hand, includes, in what is a representation of what will be, many elements from the past so as not to lose the link with what we were.

The incredible genius of the enfant terrible of French fashion gave vent to all his creativity in that show for Fall/Winter 1995 to present the “Cyber” collection, giving us one of the most memorable moments in the history of fashion of all time.

Written by Andrea Tuzio
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