“Streetwear is dead“.
These are the words that in recent months, we found ourselves commenting more often, the phrase is from Louis Vuitton’s menswear creative director, Virgil Abloh. On the occasion of the launch of the collaboration between the French company and NIGO (founder of Human Made), Abloh maskes things right talking about death and continuous rebirth of the phenomenon.
Yes, but where were the foundations of streetwear culture that has influenced, and continues to influence, the world of high fashion more than any other?
The answer is in a late ’80s column in a Japanese magazine.

“Last Orgy“, written and conceived by a young Hiroshi Fujiwara, on the pages of an independent street culture magazine, “Takarajima“.
The monthly column proposed to its readers the latest news about the rappers of the moment and hip-hop music, the latest vinyl releases, punk, the coolest photographers, DJs, the strongest skateboarders, sneakers, break dancers and the coolest American brands (including Stüssy, of which he became the first Japanese member of the International Tribe).
“Last Orgy”, has completely transformed the Japanese street scene and culture by helping to introduce concepts such as mash-ups and enhance a form of cultural hybridization that has quickly turned into an art form; a direct line between New York and Tokyo at a time when distances were still a very difficult obstacle to overcome and that has made Hiroshi Fujiwara a landmark of the street culture around the world.

The column was so successful that it became a series of videos broadcast late at night on Japanese television documenting street culture in Harajuku, Tokyo. Fortunately, these pearls were not lost and you can find a selection of “Last Orgy” episodes on the YouTube channel LOST TAPES.
A big fan of the series, meanwhile, recorded every episode idolizing Fujiwara, his name is Tomoaki Nago, but we all know him as NIGO. Thanks to Jun Takahashi, founder of UNDERCOVER and an integral part of the “Last Orgy” project, the young NIGO manages to meet his idol becoming his assistant, until, out of the shadow of Fujiwara and consolidated his position, Popeye magazine will entrust him with the column “The Last Orgy 2“, which he will edit together with Takahashi.
The two of them, building on the success and reputation accumulated thanks to this platform, opened their first retail store, NOWHERE, in 1993. Funded in part by mentor Fujiwara, the store was considered a landmark in the Harajuku neighborhood, obviously selling UNDERCOVER and A BATHING APE products, vintage items of American brands and sneakers hard to find.

In an ultra-fast world, where it’s too easy to forget, memory and gratitude take on a very important value, that’s why we chose to take this little trip to the dawn of streetwear culture.