Style Milan Fashion Week Women FW22 despite everything

Milan Fashion Week Women FW22 despite everything

Andrea Tuzio

This should have been a Milan Fashion Week Women FW22 – which ends today – under the banner of a return to normality after two years of pandemic that have disrupted rhythms, creative processes and presentations. Two years of uncertainties and fears which have changed our society especially from the point of view of habits. 

Someone pointed out that, while on the other side of Europe a war was being fought, Milan seemed to live in a parallel world made of fashion shows, parties and influencers ready to show the latest outfit. Eppure, nel loro piccolo, diversi stilisti e brand sono riusciti a unirsi a tutto il mondo che in questi giorni sta scendo in piazza chiedendo a gran voce che venga ristabilita la pace.

I would start with Giorgio Armani‘s decision to present the Fall/Winter 22/23 collection in absolute silence. A voiceover before the start of the show said: “My decision not to use any kind of music taken as a sign of respect for all the people involved in the ongoing tragedy in Ukraine”
A decision that Giorgio Armani then explained visibly moved after the show: 
“A few hours before I thought about what I could do for what is happening, it is not sending money or clothes but signaling my heartbeat for these children. The best thing is to give the signal that we don’t want to celebrate because something around us is very disturbing. So I said, I don’t want music, the girls were excited more than for any music, they were really understood and the leaders got 100% out of it”. A strong stance with respect to the tragedy unfolding in Ukraine.

If 2021 was the year of collaborations and their exasperation, 2022 opens with yet another joint venture, this time between Gucci and adidas with the Exquisite Gucci collection. Alessandro Michele, has decided to show us how something as familiar as a suit, declined in every possible conjugation for example, can give us new sensations in a sort of “re-enchantment”. 
In presenting the collection Michele referred to the image of the mirror, but not as an object that reflects the truth and returns it to us without alteration, but as an instrument that can also evoke deception. A metaphor for the suit re-imagined in the adidas x Gucci collabo, which gives the possibility to “cross a transformative threshold where we become something else”.

The history of the maison and its aesthetics blending with that of the people. This is the common thread that linked Prada‘s Fall/Winter 22/23 collection. 
“It’s about the history of women, not the history of fashion. It’s something I’ve always said, but now I feel it’s important to repeat it. Using these garments, drawing from history, puts us in touch with the lives of the past: we want to learn from people’s lives”, Miuccia Prada said in notes to the show.
Together with Raf Simons, Miuccia in this new collection rediscovers the cornerstones that have made Prada what it is, enhancing and recovering the history of the maison, in a summa of what femininity is according to Prada. 

Sunnei, on the other hand, gave us the most “performative” moment of Milan Fashion Week.
Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo paraded through the streets, making the models run along a sidewalk transformed into a catwalk. A eulogy to the movement, to the rave culture of the 90s, to layering and practicality that Sunnei has created in the Fondazione Prada area.

As well as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons with Prada, Kim Jones rediscovers Fendi‘s past and history.
It all started when Delfina Delettrez, daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, showed up at the Roman fashion house’s HQ with a blouse from the Spring/Summer ’86 collection borrowed directly from her mother’s closet. 
“The best way to explore Fendi’s archives is through the maison’s own wardrobe. With Collections that, although they come from the past, know a lot about the present”, said Jones.
A rediscovery of Karl Lagerfeld’s long work and a tribute to his immortal legacy.
And Silvia Venturini Fendi concludes, “This collection brings me back to my family history. I wore these prints, Kim saw them on Delfina. What’s important to me in fashion is that it’s not something to be worn just once, and that’s the case with Fendi, which is never banal. There is always a story behind each piece, always something different”.

Written by Andrea Tuzio
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