When talking or writing about Pablo Picasso today it is necessary to make a brief but due introduction.
The Spanish painter, sculptor and lithographer was without any doubt an unparalleled genius, unique, extraordinary and at the same time also troubled, restless, dark, troubled, problematic and, apparently, also fierce and cruel.

Here we we will not address the personal issue related to Picasso’s life nor the purely artistic one, here I will try to analyze his personal style, the one related to the ephemeral par excellence, fashion.

2023 is the 50th anniversary year of Pablo Picasso‘s passing, and given his enormous influence also on the aesthetics of artists in the collective imagination-from Picasso onward if one wanted to depict an artist one relied precisely on the Spanish genius-I decided to take a little trip “into the closet” of Pablo Picasso.


A style archetype with few equals, Pablo Picasso set an aesthetic marker that is still propagated in so many contexts today.
What comes out from the countless photos depicting the artist at a first distracted glance is a seemingly sloppy, improvised, careless look, but the truth tells us just the opposite!
For 16 years Picasso relied on the skilled hands of his personal stylist as well as one of his closest friends, the tailor Michele Sapone. Originally from Bellona, province of Caserta, Michele was born in 1912 and was immediately very willing from a business standpoint.

First a bricklayer, then a farrier and finally a tailor as early as age 20 in the tailor shop of mastro Carluccio, Carlo della Cioppa, in his hometown. The urge to leave southern Italy was strong, and after being in Turin where, thanks to the intense social, political and cultural life, he had the opportunity to make his skills as a tailor known. Because of the war he moved to Split, where he met the partisan Slavka, who would become his lifelong companion and with whom he would have two daughters.


Once he moved to Nice after the war, where he worked as maitre coupeur at Seelio Tailleur- Chemisier, he met Pablo Picasso by chance-thanks to mutual friend and poet André Verdet-who was living in Cannes, in his famous villa called “La Californie.”
That meeting became the beginning of a 16-year-long collaboration and intimate friendship, during which Michele Sapone became in effect “Picasso’s tailor.”
That fabric craftsman from the province of Caserta did not just “dress” Picasso; he created and sewed the clothes for him, trying to capture all the complex and indefinite facets of his very difficult character.

It is the early 1950s and both protagonists in this story are imbued with a very strong creative energy. Soap was obsessed with “thinking of what to invent for the man who had invented everything”.
The first work Michele made for Picasso was a trouser “à la Courbet” that the artist loved from the first moment and that became the first piece of a union that led Sapone to create at least 200 pants, a hundred jackets and dozens of coats of all shapes and fabrics, but always of the highest quality.
Pablo Picasso loved stripes, indelible from everyone’s memory are the mariniére T-shirts he wore thickly, as well as the short shorts and espadrilles, his brown leather strap watch, his loose sweaters with buttons or without , the baggy pants, the V-shaped sweaters, the wide-brimmed hats and the jackets shorter than the canons of the time – by this expedient he tried to “hide” his height, Picasso was 5 feet 3 inches tall.


Let me close with a tidbit: on October 25, 1956, Picasso’s 75th birthday, Sapone gave the artist a new jacket that Picasso immediately wore, saying he would keep it on all day.He immediately loved that jacket: made of brown and black horizontally ribbed velvet with a collar without lapels, with an opening on the chest but no buttons. Soap called it a “Mao jacket”, but in fact the tailor was referring to a work jacket that Bellona peasants wore while working.
A story, that of Pablo Picasso’s style, about creativity, art and craftsmanship and at the same time about a friendship that will mark the lives of the protagonists forever.

Credits: “Il sarto di Picasso“ Luca Masia (SilvanaEditoriale)