There’s one garment that, against all odds, is rewriting the rules of red carpet elegance: the T-shirt. More specifically, the slogan tee, a simple shirt with a printed phrase, is making a name for itself as a vehicle for messages, irony, provocation or, let’s be honest, just branding. Its return isn’t exactly sudden: in recent years, between ‘90s nostalgia and an increasing interest from brands in social and political issues, slogan tees have taken back both runways and the streets—reaching even the most traditional of places: film festivals.
The first major sign of this shift—or trend—arrived a couple of years ago, when everyone went crazy for the “I TOLD YA” T-shirt by Loewe. It was first worn by Zendaya on the streets of New York, then by Jonathan Anderson—then Loewe’s creative director—and Josh O’Connor, who wore it like a shirt on the red carpet at the premiere of Challengers by Luca Guadagnino. Zendaya later wore it again in a scene from the film.
It seems that Luca Guadagnino has a particular fondness for slogan tees, confirmed by his recent appearance on the red carpet of the 82nd Venice International Film Festival. The Sicilian director—who presented After the Hunt out of competition—showed up wearing a greige T-shirt with the words “No Dior No Dietrich.” It’s not just a nod to the strong bond between German-American actress Marlene Dietrich and Christian Dior, but a quote she actually said when Hitchcock offered her the role of Charlotte Inwood in Stage Fright. She gave the director only one condition: to wear exclusively Dior garments, saying exactly, “No Dior No Dietrich.” And so it was.
Several national and international outlets speculate that Guadagnino wore this T-shirt to emphasize his relationship with Jonathan Anderson—with whom he collaborated on Challengers, Queer, and After the Hunt—much like the bond between Dietrich and Dior. Who knows, maybe the next tee he wears will say “No Anderson No Guadagnino.”
Not all T-shirts speak only of fashion. Some elevate the conversation. One of the most notable is the one created by young designer Conner Ives bearing the slogan “Protect the Dolls,” in support of transgender women.
The slogan—dating back to the 1980s—first appeared on a white T-shirt at the end of Conner Ives’ runway show during last February’s London Fashion Week. Since then, it has been worn by several celebrities including Madonna, Troye Sivan, and Pedro Pascal, who chose it for the red carpet at the premiere of the Marvel film Thunderbolts.
And then there are T-shirts that become the manifesto of a film. Also at the 82nd Venice International Film Festival, just a couple of days ago, the film The Valley of Smiles by Paolo Strippoli was presented. For the occasion, the young Italian director appeared on the red carpet wearing a white T-shirt with a drawing. His film tells the story of Remis, a mountain village where the inhabitants are all unusually happy. But behind this apparent serenity lies a disturbing ritual: at night, the villagers gather to embrace Matteo, a teenager who can absorb others’ pain. And so, illustrated on his T-shirt by Italian artist Ale Giorgini was a hug—so simple and minimalist it could become not just the film’s poster, but its logo.
In short, it’s a reference to the past, a positioning strategy by brands and creative directors, a marketing choice, a statement, self-promotion, a political manifesto. A T-shirt worn on the red carpet can be worth more than a thousand words, confirming itself as an immediate and powerful means of communication — because a T-shirt is never just a T-shirt.
