Photography “Unposed” and the photographic realism by Filippo Mutani
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“Unposed” and the photographic realism by Filippo Mutani

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Collater.al Contributors

Unposed by Filippo Mutani is photography in its purest state. After all, thinking by subtraction, a camera’s job is to let a certain amount of light pass through a lens and imprint information on a receptive medium. Its work consists of capturing a more or less short moment of reality. So we can capture moments of any kind, in any place, of any nature. But not everything is the same, not everything has the same value and not everything has the same purpose: there are moments and moments, shots and shots, choices or no choices.

Unposed is an example of how a shrewd, skilful and aesthetically prepared eye can not only capture a portion of reality, stealing a hundredth of a second from time, but can also return an instant full of meaning, capable of showing a common imagery and at the same time creating it. 

The award-winning Italian photographer created an incredible five-year project (2010 to 2015), mainly for the New York Times, in which he portrayed the fashion weeks of Paris, New York and Milan with a purely documentary intent.

Before talking about photography, however, it is necessary to take a quick leap into the world of fashion. Haute couture and fashion shows have not always been a pop show as they are today. Until only a few years ago, the catwalks of the fashion business were something unreachable, a world populated by VIPs and people in the industry. The most interesting socio-cultural aspect of Unposed is that it investigates a reality in its period of maximum transformation. These are the years in which fashion weeks are no longer private events enjoyed only by a few privileged people, but they are not what they have become today yet. They don’t yet have the hype and the great media attention that they now possess. The value of this project, besides the aesthetic and purely photographic one, lies in this: to have documented a period of great, and almost unexpected, change.

Returning to photography, we can say that Unposed is a work with a human eye that aims to make known from within something that was not yet fully known, and to bring it out, in newspapers and magazines, to give it light. In these photographs there is no desire for judgement: the intention is only to document and return in the most functional way. 

Another of his characteristics is that the realistic purpose is sublimated by the aesthetics of the pictures themselves. Every single image works and narrates on its own, as if it were a poem, and not a prose novel as Unposed is, because it is so designed. 

Unposed

The eye captures the magic of the backstage, the tired and melancholic glances of the models and great stylists who appear as extras in this great story. The fashion landscape is painted by the light of the lens, stealing the energy that is created in the frenzy of the catwalks.

Autore: Francesco Fusi

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Written by Collater.al Contributors
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