Walter Albini—highly influential yet often forgotten—remains one of the most intriguing figures in the history of Italian ready-to-wear fashion. His approach to living fashion and within fashion reminds us how a true creative moves through what they love. This reflection has stayed with us since yesterday, October 22, when we attended the screening of the unreleased short film “Behind the Image: Walter Albini and Fashion Photography” at CityLife Anteo, followed by a talk about the Italian designer and his legacy.
In questa occasione non solo abbiamo avuto la fortuna di incontrare alcuni dei collaboratori più stretti di Albini ma anche Carla Sozzani, Emmanuele C. Randazzo (Direttore della Fondazione Gian Paolo Barbieri) insieme a Federico Poletti e Arianna Sarti. I racconti e le storie raccontate da chi ha vissuto gli anni ’70 insieme ad Albini – momento d’oro per lo stilista – ci hanno permesso di mettere in prospettiva l’influenza di un creativo che ha collaborato con fotografi del calibro di Fiorenzo Niccoli e Maria Vittoria Backhaus.
On this occasion, we were not only fortunate to meet some of Albini’s closest collaborators, but also Carla Sozzani, Emmanuele C. Randazzo (Director of the Gian Paolo Barbieri Foundation), along with Federico Poletti and Arianna Sarti. The stories told by those who lived through the 1970s alongside Albini—a golden era for the designer—helped us gain perspective on the influence of a creative who worked with renowned photographers such as Fiorenzo Niccoli and Maria Vittoria Backhaus.
«When we returned from a trip to India, Walter had brought back a large quantity of garments, which he then used to develop an Indian collection for Trell. For the photo, we created a mountain of rags on which he sat like an Indian idol with a flower on his head. For him, it was important to invent a narrative with a constantly avant-garde vision,» recalls Maria Vittoria Backhaus in the short film, reminiscing about one of the most beautiful (and certainly timeless) shots taken with Walter Albini.
Not only Backhaus, but also Randazzo, through the memories of Gian Paolo Barbieri, recounts the photographer’s reflections: «In those years, creativity came from both the designer and the photographer working together to shape extraordinary projects. The collaboration between Gian Paolo Barbieri and Walter Albini began as early as 1969 with a stunning editorial for Vogue, and then in 1971 with his first fashion show, Albini combined design and industry, giving birth to Italian prêt-à-porter, while Gian Paolo narrated it with his campaigns, promoting the rise of Made in Italy worldwide».
These kinds of testimonials also help younger generations reflect on the story of this figure, who has been largely forgotten by the fashion world. What remains—the photographs, sketches, and garments—will now be joined by the short film, keeping the memory alive. This is further supported by the exhibition “Walter Albini. The Talent, The Designer” at the Textile Museum in Prato, which has paved the way for greater awareness of his story. Altogether, these efforts contribute to doing justice to Albini, helping us to remember him in the right way, thanks to the memories and reflections of those who accompanied him through the most important decade of his brief career.
