Brief history of camp collar

Brief history of camp collar

Andrea Tuzio · 2 months ago · Style

I have to be honest, I’m a little biased in writing this article, camp collar shirts are my favorite fetish in recent years.

Perhaps best known as bowling shirts, cuban shirts, cabana shirts, alpha shirts or safari shirts, (yes, too many names you are right), shirts characterized by the camp collar have made a comeback as a must-have in men’s wear and beyond.

A casual item that, however, at the same time represents a very valid alternative on occasions when the outfit required is more elegant, a transversal piece if there is one.
As I said, the names this garment carries are many and this is the result of its multifaceted and debated history, but let’s try to shed some light and try to tell the story.

The origins of the camp collar shirt can be traced back to the late 19th century, with some saying it came from the Philippines, some from Mexico, and some saying it originated in Cuba via Spain. I lean toward the latter, partly because it was Cuban workers who popularized it in the United States with the mass exodus to Miami and later to New York after the Cuban exile in 1959.

Called “Guayabera”, the shirt had (and still has of course) an extremely comfortable fit, and that very wide, flat collar gave the wearer a little more “breathing room” while working in the sun and gripped by the scorching heat.

As early as the 1930s, the camp collar became a garment worn outside of work and as an informal alternative to a suit and tie, but it was not until after ’59 that it quickly and permanently conquered the United States as well.

Thanks to breakthrough figures such as Elvis, John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Martin Luther King, Sean Connery’s James Bond, Marlon Brando, Al Pacino’s Tony Montana, Ernest Hemingway, and so many others who routinely wore it in their spare time, the Cuban shirt became the ultimate expression of high-profile casual.

Today the camp collar shirt has forcefully entered the collections of major fashion brands (see Prada with the “Bowling shirts” or Aimé Leon Dore with the “Rico“), empirically substantiating the aesthetic and historical value of an iconic item.

Brief history of camp collar
Brief history of camp collar
Brief history of camp collar
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Fancy summer with the shots of Andoni Beristain

Fancy summer with the shots of Andoni Beristain

Giorgia Massari · 3 days ago · Photography

We cannot take anything or anyone for granted. Let us celebrate what is beautiful in life. Let us go through the hard times and remain standing.” With these words we enter into the poetics of Basque photographer Andoni Beristain who, with simple objects and colorful landscapes pays homage to the beauty of life. His Basque origins are fundamental in his research and particularly evident in his aesthetic. In his still life photographs, his personal vision of life emerges: colorful, optimistic and ironic.

With this series of shots by Andoni Beristain that we are offering today, we evoke the coming summer and everyone’s desire for carefree time. But despite the warm colors, the sea, the beach, and elements such as plastic chairs and fans that immediately harken back to summertime, a certain nostalgia lurks behind these shots. Summer lightness is accompanied by a streak of loneliness. A chair is alone in the sea. A game is carried by the waves. An egg hangs in the sun. A man floats alone in the sea. These are all lonely scenes that evoke a certain sense of abandonment. Probably, with these shots Andoni chooses to call to mind the dualism typical of summer, on the one hand we long for it but on the other hand we never get to enjoy it. And here Beristain’s phrase returns and his desire to teach us to savor the moment, to be able to lead the classic slow life, which is increasingly difficult to implement today.

Andoni Beristain |
Andoni Beristain |
Andoni Beristain |
Andoni Beristain |
Andoni Beristain |

Courtesy Andoni Bernstein

Fancy summer with the shots of Andoni Beristain
Fancy summer with the shots of Andoni Beristain
Fancy summer with the shots of Andoni Beristain
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J. Jason Chambers’s photography and America

J. Jason Chambers’s photography and America

Anna Frattini · 16 hours ago · Photography

Born in 1980, J. Jason Chambers is an American photographer who captures America through his shots, traveling from state to state and drawing inspiration from the New Topographics Movement. As you browse through the photographer’s shots, it feels like you’re seeing a very different America from what we imagine. Bright neon signs, gas stations, and old cars suspended in an almost cinematic atmosphere. Chambers appears to be in constant motion, from California to Wall Street, passing through the desert. The photographs taken in New York contrast with the desert suggestions of New Mexico and the Texan landscapes of Marfa.

J. Jason Chambers’ reflection on a new man-influenced topography is inspired by an exhibition from 1975 in Rochester called New Topographics. On this occasion, ten photographers showcased their work, dealing with the arrival of Conceptualism and Minimalism in photography during the 1970s. In 2010, the SFMoMA decided to revive this exhibition, revealing the pre-existing bridge between the world of contemporary art and photography.

The point of convergence between Chambers’ photography and New Topographics lies in the relationship between man and the environment. Gas stations, motels, or parking lots have now become part of our imagination when it comes to landscapes, just as they were in the 1970s.

J. Jason Chambers

To discover more shots by J. Jason Chambers here is his Instagram profile.

Ph. courtesy J. Jason Chambers

J. Jason Chambers’s photography and America
J. Jason Chambers’s photography and America
J. Jason Chambers’s photography and America
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John Yuyi challenges consumer culture

John Yuyi challenges consumer culture

Anna Frattini · 7 days ago · Art, Photography

Chiang Yu-yi, also known as John Yuyi, is a Taiwanese visual artist with an extraordinary background. Her works embody the spirit of the post-internet generation, challenging consumer culture, one of the most recurring themes in Yuyi’s career.

John Yuyi

Yuyi’s career began as a fashion influencer, but when she moved to New York in 2015, something changed. She started selling temporary tattoos to promote her swimwear collection, and over time, she incorporated illustrations, photographs, and symbols from the world of social media into them. Temporary tattoos, an interesting medium, involve the realm of corporeality as both a medium and an object of investigation. These, along with her photographs, have made Yuyi very popular not only on social media but also in the art world.

The process of documentation carried out by John Yuyi speaks of her experience as an influencer, our relationship with social media, and our bodies, especially our faces—the part of our bodies in which others recognize us and that can offer a sense of real representation for the viewer. Mental health is also a topic close to Yuyi’s heart. Suffering from bipolar disorder, she has depicted her distress through a series of photographs titled, Cell for Young Plant.

But Yuyi is not only involved in art and photography. She is also working on commercial projects that have led her to collaborate with important brands and magazines. One unforgettable collaboration took place last year with MIUMIU, where Yuyi captured Lee Youm and Ever Anderson for the SS22 advertising campaign.

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Un post condiviso da JOHN YUYI (@johnyuyi)

John Yuyi’s journey demonstrates how it is possible to reinvent oneself and discover one’s artistic talent starting from a world far from the traditional art scene as we know it.

Discover more of John Yuyi’s projects on her Instagram profile.

Ph. courtesy John Yuyi

John Yuyi challenges consumer culture
John Yuyi challenges consumer culture
John Yuyi challenges consumer culture
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The absurd in Luca Marino’s photography

The absurd in Luca Marino’s photography

Giorgia Massari · 7 days ago · Photography

With a photo-journalistic approach, photographer Luca Marino searches for the absurd in situations. Born in London to an Italian father and a Colombian mother, Marino is attracted to those details that often go unnoticed, “I look where no one else looks,” he says. Among the streets of the great metropolis of London, Luca Marino makes two projects, “Oxford Street Paradox” and “Transport for London.

Luca Marino |

In the first project – “Oxford Street Paradox” – the photographer’s much sought-after absurdity is evident, which, at times, deceives the viewer. The photographs capture passersby on the city’s busiest shopping street – Oxford Street – appearing totally deformed. This effect is not achieved in post production, Marino in fact shoots the reflective surface of a cloister that creates funny altered images. With irony and levity, the photographer uses this natural “alteration” to point out how crazy our shopping habits have become, bordering on compulsive.

Also in the second project – “Transport for London” – Luca Marino shows what is often not looked at but rather, ignored. In this case, the protagonists are the employees of London’s transport system, from buses to the underground. People we do not pay attention to but who are responsible for the city’s road system. They allow us to move from one side of the city to the other, but they remain in the shadows. Luca Marino, in collaboration with the company, gets in touch with the hidden side of the famous Underground, photographing employees in their offices and rest rooms. He captures moments of cleanliness, including the sanctification of the carriages during the period of health emergency dictated by covid-19.

Luca Marino |
Luca Marino |
Luca Marino |

Ph Credits Luca Marino
Courtesy Luca Marino

The absurd in Luca Marino’s photography
The absurd in Luca Marino’s photography
The absurd in Luca Marino’s photography
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