Creators – The visionaries of tomorrow’s design – Interview with FORMAFANTASMA

Creators – The visionaries of tomorrow’s design – Interview with FORMAFANTASMA

Claire Lescot · 5 years ago · Design

When we talk about the designers Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin we immediately think of a brain drain. After graduating from the Design Academy in Eindhoven, the consecrated European incubator for talent, they decided to open their Formafantasma studio in Amsterdam.

Their approach is conceptual and takes into account historical and socio-political implications and their works end up in circuits that have little to do with industrial production. The consumption of the product is not the main purpose for which they draw, in fact, sometimes there is not even a drawing. Many of their objects are able to obtain a shape only during processing. The form is, therefore, less than the search, hence the name: Formafantasma (In English: ghost–shape).

Many works are worthy of note but the most interesting for us are : the objects with an organic form produced with the molten lava of the Etna (that looks like glass), the stools of skin of fish wolf or salmon, the carafes and lamps of dried bovine bladder (all waste from the food industry), ecological plastic pots made of wood fibers and animal proteins (a type of natural plasticization deriving from a processing method from the end of the 18th century) and furniture components resulting from electronic waste .

Atypical about creative and visionary processes regarding reuse and innovation, the duo is ready to revive the concept of design in the world

A Venetian and a Sicilian, the deep north and the deep south that meet. Where did it happen and what is the common denominator that has kept you connected?

We met during our B.A. in Florence, then we started working together and we applied for the Master at Design Academy in Eindhoven as a team. It was the first time this was happening and the head of the IM Master Gijs Bakker has been so open minded to understand this could work. We graduated with a joint project. When we work everything is really organic and sometimes there are a lot of discussions. But that is also the nice part. We communicate in our own way and we understand and trust each other. Working in a couple give you the possibility to look at your work with more objectivity. Our projects are the result of a process of distillation of ideas. We, as designers, work almost like filters and know where we start but never where we will end

Where does the name Formfantasma come from?

We had this name in mind since we started working together really at the early beginning. If you translate it into English it means ghost shape. It is actually pointing out how our work is not driven by a formal research but more by a conceptual approach

Your work is 90% research and 10% form. What is your idea regarding the aesthetics?

In all honesty, we are not preoccupied with aesthetic. We are aware our objects share a common visual sensibility but this is not what we are busy within the studio. The formal aspect of our work is much more intuitive and it can evolve or change depending on the ideas we are channeling

What is your intention as designers?

As designers every time we start a new project or we investigate a material our first intention is to questions stereotypes and cliché. Often more than giving solutions we propose questions or possible alternatives. To give you an example, with Botanica we investigated pre-industrial polymers and translate them into a collection of handmade vessels. If plastics are used for their perfect surfaces we are crafting them by hand. Where industrial evolution have discarded this materials and researches in favor of petrol-based polymers, we are revisiting the potentials of underestimated materials. More, in general, we believe the role of a designer is to respond to social and cultural necessities of a society. A designer should be critical and with the ability to open up possibilities and new ways of intending design as a discipline

We’d like to hear your thought about sustainable design

Sustainability is a beautiful idea, nevertheless, it is the reassuring response of the economy to the ecological crisis. In all honesty, there is nothing sustainable about capitalism or production and consumption. We are more interested in the idea of ecology. As a word is much more complex and inclusive. In the next years of design education, we would love to see designers rethinking the discipline not anymore as a tool to improve only the life of humans but more looking at the planet earth as a whole with all its complexity and multi-species cohabitation. Recently we have studied the electronics recycling industry to understand if it was possible to recover components or materials in both developed and developing countries. Our work is evolving and taking on more responsibility. We will deepen this and other aspects at the next exhibition of Paola Antonelli Broken Nature.

Do you think it’s too early to ask you to spend a few words about your exhibition at the Serpentine Galleries scheduled for 2020?

Yes, It is too early to talk about it. In any case, it will be about ecology and it will deal with design beyond furniture design. Also, it will be a collaborative exhibition: we will feature works of other practitioners so as to create links between design and other disciplines

As a true Italian, I can not close the interview without asking you what is your favorite dish

Our favorite food is pasta aglio olio peperoncino. Almost everybody can afford it, its good, simple and with no useless ingredients. We love to top it with muddica (the Sicilian tradition of baking some bread crumbs)

 

I visionari del design di domani Intervista a FORMAFANTASMA

 

Creators – The visionaries of tomorrow’s design – Interview with FORMAFANTASMA
Design
Creators – The visionaries of tomorrow’s design – Interview with FORMAFANTASMA
Creators – The visionaries of tomorrow’s design – Interview with FORMAFANTASMA
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50 years of Hip Hop in the new adidas x Foot Locker Chile20 collection

50 years of Hip Hop in the new adidas x Foot Locker Chile20 collection

Collater.al Contributors · 4 days ago · Style

2023 is an important year for Hip Hop, especially for its aesthetic definition, which ties in with a landmark collection for the entire movement: the adidas Chile20. Born with the 1962 football World Cup, for which the first Chile20 collection was designed, now the German brand celebrates the 50th anniversary of the collection with a campaign that will feature Foot Locker stores in Via del Corso in Rome and Corso Vittorio Emanuele in Milan.

adidas and Foot Locker thus celebrate what has been and still is a cultural phenomenon, but also a milestone in the birth of an artistic expression for the entire streetwear movement. The Chile20 collection over the years has paved the way for Hip Hop artists, letting them feel part of a subcultural movement that has expanded over the years, influencing culture on many levels.

The new campaign thus celebrates the past but looks to the future of the style, choosing a unisex approach in the colors of the two tracksuits, presented in the “Alumina” and “Chalk Brown” colorways. The importance of adidas’ legacy is highlighted by the oversized three stripes and trefoil placed prominently on the garments.

For the launch, adidas and Foot Locker chose to cement the importance of the community of fans and the connection between Chile20 and music. Buying a piece of the collection in the Milan and Rome stores from March 18th to 26th, the clients will receive a poster zine. Inside poster zines there will be 1x “golden ticket” per store, that will give you access to the drawing of a special sound box, microphone, headphones and everything you need to record new music on the road.
The new Chile 20 collection starts from its roots and goes beyond its artistic history, able to embrace styles, trends, movements and figures that have defined part of pop culture for half a century.

Chile 20 | Collater.al
50 years of Hip Hop in the new adidas x Foot Locker Chile20 collection
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50 years of Hip Hop in the new adidas x Foot Locker Chile20 collection
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Super Mario shoes really exist

Super Mario shoes really exist

Tommaso Berra · 1 week ago · Style

Arguably the most famous video game character ever, created by Nintendo in 1981 and conceptualized by Japanese game author Shigeru Miyamoto, Super Mario is the fictional plumber who has accompanied generations of gamers and also became recognizable by his look, consisting of his red hat, blue dungarees, white gloves and big brown work shoes. The latter have recently become real, created by a collaboration between Nintendo and Red Wing and unveiled last March 10 at Nintendo’s New York store on Mario Day.

The brand collaborated with the creative team of The Super Mario Bros. Movie, to be released in Italy on April 5, 2023. The model is designed as a real work shoe, and especially to be worn given the use of a non-slip sole and leather typical of Red Wing models, a brand recognized for the quality of its products. The shoes will be on display in the New York store starting April 10, and the design confirms a fashion trend to be inspired by cartoons, as was the case in recent weeks with MSCHF’s much-talked-about red boots inspired by the AstroBoy cartoon.
A curious detail of the shoe is the inclusion of elements made from mushrooms, a central element in the video game saga that is combined with a rounded shape that almost creates a caricature of the classic leather shoe. The boots at the moment are not purchasable but made only in a limited edition, but if fashion continues to follow this cartooncore and the trend of creating collections that aim without hiding to become social memes as well, we can expect sooner or later that we will see Super Mario, Nintendo and Red Wing boots in some boutique.

Super Mario | Collater.al
Super Mario | Collater.al
Super Mario | Collater.al
Super Mario | Collater.al
Super Mario shoes really exist
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Super Mario shoes really exist
Super Mario shoes really exist
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The runways revolution, transformed into art show by Bureau Betak

The runways revolution, transformed into art show by Bureau Betak

Giorgia Massari · 3 weeks ago · Style

Fashion Week, which recently ended in Milan and moved to Paris, brings with it great cultural and artistic ferment, especially with its catwalks, which are increasingly spectacular and artistic. Art, often the muse of the greatest fashion collections, increasingly boasts its presence even within the fashion shows, becoming necessary for the creation of art shows, brief but sensational. Set designs, lighting, installations and performances concur in creating magical settings in dialogue with the collection presented. Designers, set designers and creatives are involved in the design of these places, but the name of Bureau Betak stands out among them all.
The Parisian studio today is a reference point for the most prestigious haute couture brands including Dior, Gucci, Fendi, Jacquemus and YSL. Founded in 1990 by Alexandre de Betak, the creative studio contributes to the revolution of the runway show space by inspiring and drawing on avant-garde theatrical, architectural and design settings, as well as including artwork and performance art. The fashion show becomes an experience to be lived in person, a true multi-sensory art show capable of astonishing and decisively communicating. Indeed, the purpose is not only to catch the eye, but also to support and accentuate the messages and intentions behind the new collections, which can be conveyed and explained more clearly with the help of art, a powerful communicative and expressive medium.

The most recent examples are the installations that the Bureau Betak studio created for Bottega Veneta and Gucci during the last Milan Fashion Week. Bottega Veneta’s installation was conceived and designed around the message that the Italian fashion house needed to convey with its new collection: the coexistence of classicism and the need for metamorphosis. The setting is enclosed in a somber, rural-looking place, with wooden seats populating the spotted “a stracciatella” flooring, a favorite taste of Matthieu Blazy (BV’s artistic director). The guests of honor, however, are the two 1st-century B.C.E. Herculaneum Runners and one of fourteen reproductions of Umberto Boccioni‘s futurist sculpture Unique Forms of the Continuity of Space, lent by their home museums (the MANN in Naples and the National Gallery in Cosenza, respectively). Bottega Veneta’s forward momentum is undoubtedly accentuated and underscored by the form and posture of the subjects, which point forward.

With a retro aura, on the other hand, was the set for Gucci’s fashion show, for which Bureau Betak creates an eco-sustainable set, just like the revolutionary new material Demetra, presented by the Italian fashion house. To create the set, the studio relies on entities specializing in the recovery of materials, including Milan’s Spazio Meta. The entire room is lined with soft pistachio green carpeting, contrasting with the dark seats that welcome viewers. Geometry dominates the space, outlining the dynamic progression of the show that passes through two amphitheater pools placed in the center. The setting makes one fully breathe in the atmosphere of the past that the new Gucci collection offers, drawing directly from the historical archives of its stylistic heritage.

Equally spectacular and artistic are some of the sets from past fashion shows, including the total white Gaudian-style setting created in Paris for Dior or, remaining in Italy, the one created for Ermenegildo Zegna among Anselm Kiefer‘s Seven Heavenly Palaces in Hangar Bicocca.
Alexandre de Betak, referred to by the New York Times as “the Fellini of Fashion”, undoubtedly marks a turning point within the world of fashion shows, which become true works of art, on a par with museum displays or theater sets.

The runways revolution, transformed into art show by Bureau Betak
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Flaminia Veronesi’s vision x Marni

Flaminia Veronesi’s vision x Marni

Andrea Tuzio · 4 weeks ago · Style

The relationship between fashion and art continues to strengthen during this Milan fashion week.
An example of the strong connection that exists between these two forms of creative expression is very well represented by the dialogue undertaken between Marni and artist Flaminia Veronesi

After the Spring/Summer 2023 collection of the brand directed by Francesco Risso last September – where Marni’s classic vivid and joyful colors were further highlighted and emphasized by draping and swirls inspired by the London-based artist’s works – Marni and Flaminia Veronesi continue to tighten their connection and deepen their relationship inside the flagship store of the maison founded by Consuelo Castiglioni in 1994 where the artist’s peculiar vision, characterized by an imagery that recalls fantastic and unique worlds populated by fluid, ethereal and sensual creatures, gives a new decoding of the spaces of Via Montenapoleone enveloping the patrons leaving free rein to their imagination.

The exhibit, titled “THE HERMITCRAB’S WUNDERSHELL”, brings together shapes and colors, sculptures and paintings, bodies, creatures and flowers that project visitors into an underwater, enchanted world.
As Flaminia Veronesi herself explains, “The exhibition is conceived as the wunderkammer of a family of hermit crabs, collecting shells and mythological iconographies, hermit crab gods who look very much like us and who, with tender anthropomorphic features and striking looks are the protagonists of a monumental portrait gallery. A parade of fairy tale or cartoon characters, with hybrid bodies and iridescent complexions, flaunting provocative outfits. But can a dress be inhabited?”

The installation opened its doors to the public yesterday, February 22, at Marni’s flagship store at 26 Via Montenapoleone in Milan, and will be open until April 30.

Flaminia Veronesi’s vision x Marni
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