Marc Jacobs reissues Grunge collection Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love set on fire in ’92

Marc Jacobs reissues Grunge collection Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love set on fire in ’92

Collater.al Contributors · 4 years ago · Style

Twenty-five years ago, Marc Jacobs was designing the historic Grunge collection for Perry Ellis’ SS93 collection. Historic because starter of a big trend in the fashion industry, that today, is given for granted. Jacobs dressed Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Tyra Banks, Kate Moss and many others among the most iconic super models of the 90s, in buttoned up floral dresses, stripy t-shirts and silk shirts resembling the tartan shirts characteristic of that period. A look belonging to the culture of the West Coast of the United States, where in that period, the Grunge music and style launched by Nirvana was spreading.

It was one of the first times that a look from the street was brought on high fashion runways (like Alexander McQueen will start doing soon), making Marc Jacobs one of the pioneers of the streetwear phenomenon.

The collection received many critiques. The New York Times defined it as a collection that “mixes everything up. . . A typical outfit looks as if it were put together with the eyes closed in a very dark room.”. “Grunge is anathema to fashion” said Cathy Horyn, “and for a major Seventh Avenue fashion house to put out that kind of statement at that kind of price point is ridiculous. Grunge is about not making a statement, which is why it’s crazy for it to become a fashion statement.”, and also, “Grunge: 1992–1993, R.I.P. . . . For many, Marc Jacobs’s grunge fashion collection was the final shove”, as New York Magazine commented.

And it was the final shove. The collection never went into production, Jacobs sent some samples to Kurt Cobain and Courtuney Love, that later declared in an interview with WWD:  “We burned it. We were punkers – we didn’t like that kind of thing”.

Marc Jacobs was fired a few weeks after the discussed show but won the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year and realized what remains one of his favorite collections:

“it was the first time I was unwavering in my determination to see my vision come to life on the runway without creative compromise” – Marc Jacobs

The collection remains among the most iconic of the designer, who decided to give it a second chance in his Resort 2019 ‘Marc Jacobs Redux’, available online from this month. The collection was entirely reproduced with the original materials and accessories (including Dr Martens boots) and proposed again with a casting that has little to envy to the original one. Gigi Hadid, Slick Woods and Binx Walton are protagonists of the lookbook shot by Juergen Teller, frequent collaborator od the brand.

Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al 1 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al12 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al 2 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al 3 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al4 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al5 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al6 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al7 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al8 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al9 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al10 Marc Jacobs e la collezione Grunge che Kurt Cobain e Courtney Love avevano bruciato | Collater.al 11

Text by Enrica Miller

Marc Jacobs reissues Grunge collection Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love set on fire in ’92
Style
Marc Jacobs reissues Grunge collection Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love set on fire in ’92
Marc Jacobs reissues Grunge collection Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love set on fire in ’92
1 · 13
2 · 13
3 · 13
4 · 13
5 · 13
6 · 13
7 · 13
8 · 13
9 · 13
10 · 13
11 · 13
12 · 13
13 · 13
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

Tommaso Berra · 2 weeks ago · Photography

Every day, on our Instagram profile, we ask you to share with us your most beautiful pictures and photographs.
For this InstHunt collection of this week we have selected your 10 best proposals: @effyrose__, @niinque, @saraperacchia, @jus._._._, @nuovi_obiettivi_, @serenabiaginiph, @nellys.ph, @matti_b9, @franscescaersilia1, @kevin.ponzuoli.

Tag @collateral.photo to be selected and published on the next InstHunt.

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
Photography
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
1 · 1
InstHunt – Le 10 migliori foto della settimana su Instagram

InstHunt – Le 10 migliori foto della settimana su Instagram

Tommaso Berra · 1 hour ago · Photography

Every day, on our Instagram profile, we ask you to share with us your most beautiful pictures and photographs.
For this InstHunt collection of this week we have selected your 10 best proposals: @marcocarta87, @unagiuliaacaso, @jus._._._, @idralinho, @allecossu, @alberto_sanna4, @luanapetrullophoto, @reportageofmylife, @nuovi_obiettivi_, @_my_perfect_little_world.

Tag @collateral.photo to be selected and published on the next InstHunt.

InstHunt – Le 10 migliori foto della settimana su Instagram
Photography
InstHunt – Le 10 migliori foto della settimana su Instagram
InstHunt – Le 10 migliori foto della settimana su Instagram
1 · 1
There are two different Hong Kongs in Cody Ellingham’s shots

There are two different Hong Kongs in Cody Ellingham’s shots

Tommaso Berra · 2 weeks ago · Photography

New Zealand photographer Cody Ellingham believes that there are two versions of Hong Kong: a real one that exists with its monumental skyscrapers and one that we remember fondly in our memories. 
The series “Fantasy city by the harbour” – from which a book of photographs was also born – stems precisely from an attempt to try to understand how we can return to the “other” Hong Kong, of which only the dreams and atmospheres dense with neon and people frantically roaming the streets of the Asian city remain.

The shots mainly show the architecture of the city, studied through the calm moments of the metropolis. In fact, people never appear, a challenge considering that Hong Kong is one of the most densely populated areas on the planet with its 7 million inhabitants.
In the streets, therefore, only silence remains, interrupted by the buzzing of neon lights, which Cody Ellingham uses to accentuate the aesthetic effect of the views, as if they were sets for a futuristic film set in a hyper-technological city of androids and flying machines.
The photographer had the opportunity to study the city during his frequent travels, choosing moments of calm to make even more vivid and real the Hong Kong that persisted in his memories but was difficult to find in everyday life. The fog favours the general suspended atmosphere of the scenes, the large billboards look like TVs left on after falling asleep on the sofa while the lights of the skyscrapers belie the whole thing: the city is not sleeping.

Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
Cody Ellingham | Collater.al
There are two different Hong Kongs in Cody Ellingham’s shots
Photography
There are two different Hong Kongs in Cody Ellingham’s shots
There are two different Hong Kongs in Cody Ellingham’s shots
1 · 16
2 · 16
3 · 16
4 · 16
5 · 16
6 · 16
7 · 16
8 · 16
9 · 16
10 · 16
11 · 16
12 · 16
13 · 16
14 · 16
15 · 16
16 · 16
Daniele Frediani’s journey among the nomadic peoples of Kyrgyzstan

Daniele Frediani’s journey among the nomadic peoples of Kyrgyzstan

Tommaso Berra · 3 weeks ago · Photography

Is it possible for urban man to abandon all stimulus and service of the city to reconnect with an idea of brutal pragmatism dictated by nature? Photographer Daniele Frediani has embarked on a journey to Asia, to some of the territories in which the truth of time and space overpower appearances, consumption and weaknesses of our society.

Frediani in Kyrgyzstan perhaps saw what would happen if we were forced to go back to living as we did centuries and centuries ago, dependent on the cycle of nature and the animal cycle. The shots in his photo series show Kyrgyz nomads as they live by eliminating everything superfluous, decreasing the margin of error, of doubt about what is right or wrong. What the protagonists of these photos have at their disposal is only what their animals have to offer, while all around them are only large grasslands still cold in the Song Kol Lake area.
Living with them is an experience that takes you to another world, a world without time and space: before the Internet and social media, before technology and electricity,” said Daniele Frediani.

Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani | Collater.al
Daniele Frediani’s journey among the nomadic peoples of Kyrgyzstan
Photography
Daniele Frediani’s journey among the nomadic peoples of Kyrgyzstan
Daniele Frediani’s journey among the nomadic peoples of Kyrgyzstan
1 · 14
2 · 14
3 · 14
4 · 14
5 · 14
6 · 14
7 · 14
8 · 14
9 · 14
10 · 14
11 · 14
12 · 14
13 · 14
14 · 14
Other articles we recommend