I film con più stile del 2018

I film con più stile del 2018

Collater.al Contributors · 5 years ago · Art, Style

It’s no news that cinema and fashion hold hands. It’s impossible to deduct which one started influencing the other: in the same way in which cinema affects catwalks (and sidewalks), high fashion and subcultural style affect the big screen, working as a constant source of inspiration.

Fashion has the habit to take from the past, with the same immediacy in which a film can take us back to another era. This discourse gains particular worth within today’s context, in which every new thing we are proposed with seems to be a futuristic reinterpretation of the past. The best movies of 2018 also look back at the past but they could be a starting point for the trends of the new year.

Here are the ones we appreciated the most:

The Favourite

The favorite is the last film by Yorgos Lanthimos, set in 18th century England. The drama-comedy unfolding through the notes of the absurd, in authentic Lanthimos style, was dressed by acclaimed costume designer Sandy PowellOscar winner for Shakespeare in Love, Carol and Gangs of New York.

This time, instead of going for pompous gowns and pastel-colored frills characteristic of 1700s, Powell established a black and white palette, creating a “punk rock” version of the Royal Court, that goes well with the humor of the film. The costume designer spoke to Vulture about the self challenge of moving away from the use of color (characteristic of her work until now), experimenting with different textures in order to let the costumes stand out on camera.

film stile 2018 | Collater.al 1

Bohemian Rhapsody

Other then being an undiscussed music icon, Freddie Mercury was also and undiscussed style icon. Always careful about his image on stage, he once said “it’s not a concert you are seeing, it’s a fashion show”. We can only imagine how demanding it was for British costume designer Julian Day to give honor to each of his sartorial moments. To go safe, Day played home court (in London). After an accurate research among the Queen’s archive, between costumes and clippings, the costume designer found some vintage pieces from London’s vintage boutique Biba, where Mercury’s female love interest worked when they met. The white leather jacket Rami Malek is wearing while the band signs its first contract with a record label, is said to be found in Jimi Hendrix’s apartment when he died, which would make it a tribute to the influence Hendrix had on Freddie Mercury. Other than the famous top with batwings (reproduced from original author Zandra Rhodes) and the spandex jumpsuits (like the iconic harlequin jumpsuit sold for a good 29,000 $) that allowed him to jump and interact on stage, the most difficult look to recreate was the one in denim and tank top worn at the Wembley stadium in 1985. Day contacted Wrangler and adidas to reproduce the exact models of the garments originally worn and he had to make about 30 tank tops to make sure he got the neckline right.

film piu stile 2018 | Collater.al 2

The Black Panther

The Black Panther is the last superhero movie signed by Marvel, with a cast made entirely of African and Afro-American actors, set in the imaginary region of Wakanda, whose safety is under threat. The costume designer for the film is Ruth E Carter, with already two Oscars under her belt for Amistad and Malcom X. Her source of inspiration was the culture of ancient Africa, that she brought to the screen in a way we had never seen before. “I selected things from indigenous tribes and implemented them in a futuristic model”, declares to British Vogue, “Because the culture that [director] Ryan Coogler created is unique, I could combine elements of many African tribes – including the colour red, the triangle shape, neck rings and beadwork – without worrying about cultural appropriation”. The costume designer’s aim was to give a “real context” to South Africa, and a sense of hope in a gender-imbalanced society. Carter worked with a team of over 100 members coming from all over the world in order to re-create a look worthy of its history. Now, is predictions are right, her name will be among the Oscar nominations of 2019, and she could be the first woman to bring home the reward for best costumes for a superhero movie.

film piu stile 2018 | Collater.al 3

Suspiria

After Call Me By Your Name’s success, Luca Guadagnino decides to chance upon the remake of Dario Argento’s masterpiece: Suspiria. Film critiques bring out mixed feelings but one of the first elements appreciated, both from critics and public, is costumes. Giulia Piersanti, costume designer for the film, declared Vogue to have made some costumes out of human hair extensions, that have been hand-draped onto a cage-like structure to keep the body free for movement and emphasize its bareness. Her inspiration source for the costumes of Helena Markos Dance Academy executives were the Madame Gres-esque draped vests (think of the dramatic and impotent kaftans worn by Tilda Swinton) that conferred them with a solemn aura, keeping away from the witchy look that is characteristic of horror films. Researching on old copies of German fashion magazine Sibylle, which she found on eBay, Piersanti adapted to the soft palette made by Guadagnino, on the tones of muted grey, brown, beidge and rust. Red, characteristic of the original version by Dario Argento, still has a primary role through costume: from the leotard the main character wears to class, to the Madame Blanc’s kimono, red appears like an omen of imminent horror.

film piu stile 2018 | Collater.al 4

Mid90s

We’ve been long hearing about Mid90s, Jonah Hill’s director debut. Its reputation precedes it, and same goes for its costume designer: Heidi Bivens. We knew her already for her mix of bikinis and balaclavas in Spring Breakers by Harmony Korine and for 2016 film for KENZO World fragrance by Spike Jonze, to meet her again at Beach Bum (she is the one who put Matthew McConaughey in that pink robe with feathers on the film’s posters).

This time, she was challenged by the director to faithfully recreate the skateboarders style of mid 90s L.A, an era the director is affectionate to because symbolic of his childhood. “To the average person who doesn’t know the references of the time, it all just looks like jeans and t-shirts. The ArcLight in Hollywood is displaying the costumes, and I’ve always wanted my costumes at ArcLight, but it kinda made me laugh, because they’re jeans and t-shirts”, she tells Dazed. But the film costumes are not just any jeans and t-shirt, they are The jeans and The t-shirts with baggy silhouettes and specific prints of those times. Many are the brands, some of which are forgotten today, the costume designer managed to involve, among which are Kools and Menace. While some garments have been found on eBay or Etsy, others have been reproduced asking brands for the original artworks and graphics.

film piu stile 2018 | Collater.al 5

Text by Enrica Miller

I film con più stile del 2018
Art
I film con più stile del 2018
I film con più stile del 2018
1 · 5
2 · 5
3 · 5
4 · 5
5 · 5
Has food truly conquered us?

Has food truly conquered us?

Anna Frattini · 2 months ago · Photography

Over the past year, the internet seems to be obsessed with food culture, fueling a trend that is now evident even in the world of visual culture. From the Tomato Girl Summer, which many mock retrospectively, to the foodie fashion girlies, Balenciaga’s collaboration with Erewhon, and the massive success of The Bear. Food appears to be experiencing a rebirth, but in the worlds of art, photography, and design, it has always been present. Is this just a passing trend, or is it the glorification of an element that has always been part of our lives?

Un’illustrazione di Maisy Summer

From Tomato Girl Summer to the pomegranate

It was only in 2020, with lockdown recipes—does anyone remember Dalgona Coffe?—that so much talk about food emerged. On TikTok, @wishbonekitchen made us dream by showing us her life as a private chef in the Hamptons this summer. Unforgettable were her Heirloom Tomato Gallette and the garden where she harvested fruits, vegetables, and herbs. In 2023, it seems to have been the summer of food not only with the release of the second season of The Bear but also with Tomato Girl Summer. On the other hand, according to Danielle Cohen on The Cut, it now seems to be the time of the pomegranate.

 
 
 
 
 
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Un post condiviso da Cansu Porsuk Rossi (@cansupo)

Thanks to its shape and the vivid red that characterizes it, this fruit is widely recognized as a symbol of fertility in many parts of the world. But not only that, we find the pomegranate in mythology, art history, and, according to Cohen, even in the Torah. In short, fruits and vegetables seem to be largely protagonists of this rebirth, so we have collected some works and photographs by artists and photographers we have talked about in the past and more.

Browsing through our archives, we remembered Michael Crichton‘s photos and his photographic series, Conceptual Food, as well as Dan Bannino, who many years ago narrated the eating habits of the powerful. But there is also Stephanie Sarley, an artist who, with fruit fingering, challenged the way the art world has represented the female reproductive organ throughout its history.

 
 
 
 
 
Visualizza questo post su Instagram
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Un post condiviso da Stephanie Sarley (@stephanie_sarley)

Why it seems not to be just a passing trend

The success of food in visual culture can be attributed to its tangible communicative power. We see and experience the colors and textures of food daily, all evocative elements of memories that we have been collecting forever. In conclusion, we can only wonder which will be the next fruit to receive all this attention, already dedicated to tomatoes and pomegranates, even before avocados and bananas.

Has food truly conquered us?
Photography
Has food truly conquered us?
Has food truly conquered us?
1 · 4
2 · 4
3 · 4
4 · 4
Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots

Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots

Anna Frattini · 2 months ago · Photography

29 ARTS IN PROGRESS recently showcased Michel Haddi: Beyond Fashion, a photographic exhibition dedicated to the Franco-Algerian photographer, marking his first solo exhibition in Milan. Starting from January 16, the second chapter of this exhibition opens, featuring unconventional shots infused with a street and urban soul. Additionally, there are elements of irony and sensuality that highlight Haddi’s complex personality.

michel haddi
© Michel Haddi – Debbie Harry, British Vogue, London, 1994 | Courtesy of 29 ARTS IN PROGRESS gallery

In this second chapter, nude shots and unpublished works by Michel Haddi are presented, stemming from advertising campaigns he personally captured. The displayed photographs capture the spirit of their time, thanks to influential figures such as John Galliano or Patsy Kensit, who have played pivotal roles in the realms of fashion, cinema, and music.

Michel Haddi has the ability to portray his subjects with both irony and depth, and each of his shots tells a unique story. His life, marked by a turbulent start, has nevertheless propelled him to become one of the leading fashion photographers from the 1990s to the present day.

Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots
Photography
Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots
Michel Haddi beyond the fashion shots
1 · 6
2 · 6
3 · 6
4 · 6
5 · 6
6 · 6
Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography

Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography

Collater.al Contributors · 2 months ago · Photography

A few weeks ago, the Huxley-Parlour gallery in London announced the new exhibition by Joel Meyerowitz, which opened on January 17th. We couldn’t help but talk about him, the American photographer born in New York in 1938, famous for his street photography, and recognized as one of the pioneers of color photography. The London exhibition, titled “Dialogues,” highlights this aspect effectively. Pairs of photographs engage in a dialogue concerning light, color, and composition. The pairings are chosen to investigate the development of color in the artist’s work, set within non-hierarchical and unresolved compositions.

The exhibition in London

Meyerowitz’s imagery blends a distinctly American aesthetic with a meditative approach to color. Spanning from 1964 to 2011, the exhibition at Huxley-Parlour reveals Meyerowitz’s enduring interest in the sensory and evocative experiences of his surroundings. Paired with lesser-known images from the artist’s extensive archive, the exhibition features some of Meyerowitz’s most famous works, including his early street photography and images from his seminal series, Cape Light.

Joel Meyerowitz and the Color Revolution

Joel Meyerowitz is widely acknowledged as one of the first photographers, along with William Eggleston and Stephen Shore, to bring color photography from the periphery to the center of fine art photography. Historically, where black and white photography was considered a serious medium, color was widely viewed as technically inferior and aesthetically limited, relegated to advertising campaigns, television, and personal holiday photographs. In the London exhibition, it’s interesting to trace Meyerowitz’s shift from black and white to color. On display are works from “A Question of Color,” where Meyerowitz, carrying two cameras, paired black-and-white and color prints of nearly identical scenes.

Courtesy Joel Meyerowitz

Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography
Photography
Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography
Joel Meyerowitz is the master of color photography
1 · 10
2 · 10
3 · 10
4 · 10
5 · 10
6 · 10
7 · 10
8 · 10
9 · 10
10 · 10
A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi

A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi

Giulia Guido · 2 months ago · Photography

Not even a week ago, Alessia Glaviano – Head of Global PhotoVogue – a guest on our Spigola podcast, reminded us that it no longer matters whether you shoot with a camera or a smartphone. What matters is the intention behind the shot, not the means. We pondered deeply on this statement, and although there was initially some skepticism, we concluded that to take a true stance on the matter, we had to try it ourselves: capturing moments solely with a smartphone, but with the same attitude we would have had with a professional camera. Xiaomi provided us with the opportunity and the means.

Almost by chance, Xiaomi presented us with a challenge: to visit a distant place and attempt to capture its uniqueness using the brand-new Redmi Note 13 Pro+ 5G. And so began our journey, short but very intense, in Bangkok.

All the promises of this new device – which, along with four others, forms the new Redmi Note 13 Series, further enriching the brand’s Redmi Note lineup – were substantial. Starting from the battery, rechargeable to 100% in just 19 minutes with a lasting capacity of days (not hours), and of course, the camera system consisting of 3 cameras, including a main 200 MP camera, an ultra-wide-angle camera, and a macro camera.

We decided to put Xiaomi to the test in every moment spent in the Thai capital. The first stop was at the Royal Palace and the Wat Pho temple, where the goal was to capture the colors of the mosaics and decorations.

Xiaomi

Being one of the most touristy places in the city, we encountered many people who, like us, were fascinated by the architecture of these sacred places. The Redmi Note 13 Pro+ 5G came to our aid in this moment as well. The smartphone is equipped with AI-based editing tools that, among other things, allow us to remove people who accidentally end up in our shots. You know those photos you see on Instagram of tourist spots always empty? Now you can have them too, effortlessly!

But a city is not only visited during the day; often, it comes to life at night, illuminated by a myriad of different lights. In our case, the lights were those of the legendary tuk-tuks, indispensable in a trip to Bangkok. In this case, the challenge was formidable: darkness, colored lights, movement. All the ingredients for a challenging shot were present.

Xiaomi

Not content with just the shot, we continued to play with AI tools and added a bit more movement, some stars, many stars.

When traveling, we know very well that we are not only captivated by architecture, landscape, and glimpses, but we also focus on the faces we encounter on the streets. However, we often don’t have much time to photograph them, sometimes because they move, other times because we are the ones on the move. That’s exactly what happened to us in the characteristic Thai markets, first and foremost the Floating Market.

Reviewing the photos on the return flight and at home with friends was like reliving the journey once again, leaving no detail behind.

Xiaomi

In Bangkok, on the occasion of the launch of the new Redmi Note 13 Series, the brand also introduced the brand-new Redmi Watch 4 and Redmi Buds 5 Pro. Visit Xiaomi’s website to discover all the features of these devices.

Xiaomi

Photos shot on Xiaomi Redmi Note 13 Pro+ 5G

A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi
Photography
A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi
A photographic journey in Bangkok with Xiaomi
1 · 16
2 · 16
3 · 16
4 · 16
5 · 16
6 · 16
7 · 16
8 · 16
9 · 16
10 · 16
11 · 16
12 · 16
13 · 16
14 · 16
15 · 16
16 · 16