If a precise moment were to be established thanks to which Yves Saint Laurent‘s career took a decisive turn, this moment is certainly the presentation of the 1965 Fall/Winter collection.
Inspired by the works of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian, the collection launched a revolution in the aesthetic relationship between haute couture and the art world, laying the foundations for what would become an increasingly intrinsic union.

Mondrian began to produce the famous “grid” paintings towards the end of 1919 and, already in 1920 that style became an emblematic and distinctive feature of the artist. The Tableau I painting of 1921 is not only the perfect example of Mondrian’s aesthetic but is also the main inspiration of Yves Saint Laurent’s FW 1965 collection.
The French designer at the time seemed to be running out of ideas and leafing through a book dedicated to the Dutch painter found the inspiration: “Mondrian is purity. I don’t think there is anything purer in the art world”, Saint Laurent said about Mondrian.

This type of pictorial representation serves the designer to simplify the lines of a dress that, almost tacitly, flows over the female body giving it that mod, minimal and spatial aesthetic, fully capturing the trends that characterized all the ’60s.

The “Mondrian collection”, so-called despite the fact that only 6 of the 80 looks referred to the painter’s works, played a remarkable role in making the artistic current of Neoplasticism or De Stijl, not so well known at the time.

The cocktail dresses, made of wool and jersey, concealed the complexity of the work behind the lines of the composition. Very difficult craftwork that denotes the skill of the French designer in adapting a precise graphic style to the shapes of the female body. The reference to Mondrian’s typical colors and color-blocking is not a trivialization but represents an eternization of research that unites the Dutch artist and the French designer: essentiality and geometry applied to aesthetics.

Published on the cover of Vogue Paris, it was called “the dress of tomorrow”, it was so successful that imitations were so many that the French fashion designer was pushed to open the Rive Gauche boutique in 1966, making the concept of ready-to-wear popular.

Yves Saint Laurent’s passion for art has always been enormous, over the course of his life he has put together a truly important collection of artwork that included works by Andy Warhol, Henri Matisse, and Van Gogh. After his death, more than 1200 pieces of art were sold by Christie’s auction house for a record $470 million.
