Style Balenciaga’s “Clones” collection for Spring/Summer 2022
Stylestyle

Balenciaga’s “Clones” collection for Spring/Summer 2022

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Andrea Tuzio

“Balenciaga’s Spring 2022 collection presentation considers our changing senses of reality through the lens of technology. We see our world through a filter: perfected, polished, conformed, photoshopped. We no longer decide between unedited and altered, genuine and counterfeit, tangible and conceptual, true and fiction, fake and deepfake. Technology creates alternative realities and identities, a world of digital clones”.

A digital presentation that straddles the line between dystopia, restlessness and hyperreality that of Balenciaga‘s Spring/Summer 2022, a show that “never happened…no one was there and no one is ‘real’, only the clothes are”.
These are the words of the creative director of Balenciaga Demna Gvasalia about the latest collection presented by the Maison owned by the Kering group.

On a completely white catwalk there were clones of artist and model Eliza Douglas, now the favorite face of Balenciaga, with a contrasting audience: all in black and holding a smartphone to film everything.

The video with which the collection was presented – with a horror movie soundtrack featuring a voice reciting the lyrics of La Vie en rose made by BFRND – was made by Quentin Deronzier, who explained the techniques used to make this type of video: photogrammetry, computer graphics grafting of the scanned face (Douglas’ and digitally inserted, deepfake), planar tracking, rotoscoping, machine learning and 3D modeling. No one could tell anymore who was “real” and who wasn’t. The effect, however, is incredibly real, hyper real.

Balenciaga’s Spring/Summer 2022 presentation is an upheaval of the status quo of contemporary fashion, a reversal of those mechanisms that distinguish it as creativity.  

The hacking process started by Gucci last April, sees here embodied its maximum declination: in the collection everything remains in the typical Balenciaga aesthetic canons – in this case the cyber-goth aesthetic seems to prevail – but it questions all the issues related to branding and appropriation because “because everyone does it, whether they say so or not”, said Gvasalia.

The hacking process started by Gucci last April, sees here embodied its maximum declination: in the collection everything remains in the typical Balenciaga aesthetic canons – in this case the cyber-goth aesthetic seems to prevail – but it questions all the issues related to branding and appropriation because “because everyone does it, whether they say so or not”, said Gvasalia.

Fiction, the game between real and not real, the theme of creative appropriation in contemporary fashion were the themes of this SS22 but in July, when Balenciaga will present in Paris its first Haute Couture show after more than 50 years, I really think that “fiction” will have to be put aside to return to the essence, to the truth.

Stylestyle
Written by Andrea Tuzio
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