Gianni Versace. An Italian Legend

Gianni Versace. An Italian Legend

Andrea Tuzio · 2 months ago · Style

“He who stops is lost. Everything that is taboo, in my work, must be dismantled. I intend to possess fashion, to skin it alive, to pull out its soul.

He was visceral, passionate, carnal, disruptive, a river constantly in flood.
Gianni Versace, who would have been 75 years old today, was a man from the south of Italy with all the chrisms and character traits that this brings with it and that he poured into his unforgettable creations. 

Always true to himself, he never conformed to the canons that dominated fashion at the end of the 20th century, characterized by an extreme, almost severe, minimalism. The Calabrian designer has impetuously redefined the aesthetic imagery of the time.
Flamboyant and colorful, sensual and extreme looks inspired by the world of bondage, a baroque and Dionysian touch mixed with a boundless approach led him to become – together with Valentino and Giorgio Armani – the emblem of Made in Italy all over the world.

“Reggio Calabria is the kingdom where the fairy tale of my life began: my mother’s tailor shop, the High Fashion boutique. The place where, as a child, I began to appreciate the Iliad, the Odyssey, the Aeneid, where I began to breathe the art of Magna Graecia.

That fairytale that Gianni talked about in an interview in 1992 began on December 2, 1946 in the capital of Calabria. Already as a young boy he began his intrinsic and indissoluble relationship with fashion, the one made of needle and thread to be clear. His mother Franca was a professional tailor and owned one of the best Italian tailor’s shops at No. 13, Via Tommaso Gulli, near the Cathedral of Reggio. He worked there for a while ‘then, after attending the classical high school without ever finishing the cycle of studies, in 1972 he moved to Milan to work as a designer. In 1975 he created his first ever collection for Complice, made up of leather garments, and on March 28, 1978 Gianni signed his first collection that bore his name after founding the maison together with his brother Santo and Claudio Luti. 

This first collection – presented at the Palazzo della Permanente in Milan – already outlined Gianni’s taste and courage: prints, drapery, and metallic elements were the characteristics that broke the mold of the time and projected Gianni and his fledgling fashion house into the elite of Italian fashion and beyond. 

“When people look at Versace they must feel terrified, petrified, just like when you look into the eyes of the Medusa”.

Passionate about art history and Greek mythology, Gianni chooses one of the Gorgons, Medusa, as the logo of the maison.
Sister of Steno and Euriale, Medusa is the gòrgone par excellence, the only mortal and their queen, she was also the guardian of the underworld at the behest of Persephone.
Splendid in appearance, instead of hair had a hair made of snakes and anyone who crossed their gaze was petrified forever. 

Absolute innovator in design, techniques and research of fabrics that, if they did not exist, he created them. An example is the collection of 1982 when Gianni chose the oroton, a very light and soft metallic mesh thanks to which he created real masterpieces.

The baroque and colorful prints on silk shirts of the late ’80s, the black and bondage that have characterized the ’90s as well as the metallic elements, a distinctive feature of the Calabrian designer, represent the last legacies of Gianni before his untimely and dramatic death.

On July 15, 1997, in broad daylight on the front steps of his Miami villa, Gianni Versace was assassinated by Andrew Cunanan with two gunshots that ended the life of a timeless and decisive icon in the history of fashion of all time.
What still lives on, however, is his genius and legacy thanks to his designs and legendary creations, as well as the work of his sister Donatella who took over the reins of the fashion house after his murder. 

The symbols, the colors, the top models, the sensual and strong eroticism, the call to his mother earth and his soul impossible to enclose in a definition and that exploded with joy and creativity are the legacy, this certainly immortal, of the legend Gianni Versace. 

“I’m not a fashion designer: I’m a tailor. It’s my job. I can cut and sew clothes. Not everyone can do that”.  

Gianni Versace. An Italian Legend
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Gianni Versace. An Italian Legend
Gianni Versace. An Italian Legend
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Cinematography – Normal People

Cinematography – Normal People

Giordana Bonanno · 2 days ago · Photography

If we think about our past, are we able to scan our lives through a plot? I personally find it a bit difficult, what I remember vividly is always accompanied by a feeling, by an emotional state that, beautiful or bad, has enclosed a set of days or moments. Yet we idealize the design of a life in time bands with childhood, adolescence, “middle” adulthood, “advanced” adulthood, etc.. But do we really need to divide the years in this way or are we just trying to justify the ages through this idea? Normal People, the TV series directed by Lenny Abrahamson, made me think about a few things and realize that maybe there’s nothing normal about people, or maybe it’s all too normal.

Released during the summer of 2020, the series is based on the second novel by Irish author Sally Rooney and tells the story of Marianne and Connell, two young people who attend the same high school. His mother works as a housekeeper in the Sheridan’s big house. Connell is a popular athlete and the bright student everyone looks up to. Marianne is “uncool,” grumpy and rebellious despite an impeccable high school career. From this premise, it’s as if we can already have a clear picture of the two guys’ plans, know their lives and even imagine the end. But while all this might be true, the only thing we’ll need to know is that the plot is a secondary source. The story, theirs, is not driven by the events that sanction the beginning and happy ending of something, but by the emotional peaks of the two characters who learn about themselves in the difficulties and moments of discouragement. 

And if the dialogues help us to understand them better, their gestures will be the culmination in which all thoughts will converge; it will seem to us to have lived those sensations and we will almost want to try them again. 

The physical touch allows Marianne and Connell to show emotional vulnerability that is otherwise given to them with incredible difficulty. Ita O’Brien, who helped coordinate these scenes, is the author of a set of guidelines on how to ethically stage erotic scenes; she was the one who helped film another sex-positive modern series, “Sex Education.” Director Abrahamson and coordinator O’Brian wanted the sex in the show to feel open, normal and natural, and somewhat equal to any dialogue-this approach almost literally quotes the way Rooney herself handles the subject matter in the book. And director of photography Susie Lovell says that the main reference on set in terms of nudity and color solutions was a candid series of photographs by Nan Goldin

Speaking of which, it’s worth noting how the visual solutions rhyme with a detached style of storytelling: blue tones even on hot summer days, delicate macro photography and a tactile approach to the set design, heavy curtains, velvet or velvet pleasant to the touch, woolen sweaters, textured bedding, peeling on the ceiling wet locks adhered to the forehead. Where the show lacks depth, it makes up for it with an enveloping atmosphere. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that the episodes last only half an hour – for a story where formally little happens, the experience is very intense. 

Simple but visually striking scenes reminiscent of the work of photographer Julien Lallouette. Born in 1991, Julien is a French art director and photographer, born in Le Havre, and based in London. In addition to commercial work, Julien does personal projects where she focuses on one person at a time. His delicacy lies in leaving space for the subject, to tell someone’s story through the habits and gestures trapped in the photos. Visiting her site you can find different series of shots, each dedicated to a different person and titled with the name of the protagonist. Friends, acquaintances, but also models are portrayed in domestic and intimate environments where they have the freedom to show themselves as they really are.

The question most remains this: are we all perfect or are we just imperfectly normal people? Sally Rooney says “what if we admit extreme individualism is unsustainable and try to find the meaning of life in a variety of contacts with others?” What we seek is the possibility of being ourselves while remaining close to others.

Did you know: After filming wrapped, Paul Mescal gave his character’s signature chain necklace as a gift to Daisy Edgar-Jones.

Genre: Romance

Director: Lenny Abrahamson

Director of photography: Suzie Lavelle

WritersSally Rooney, Alice Birch, Mark O’Rowe

Stars: Paul Mascal, Daisy Edgar-Jones

Cinematography – Normal People
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Cinematography – Normal People
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JF Julian photos are a passe partout

JF Julian photos are a passe partout

Tommaso Berra · 3 days ago · Photography

JF Julian is the passe partout of a grand hotel, giving access to rooms where lonely, melancholic and beautiful women stay, undressed and lying on beds. With their gaze pointing towards nowhere, the four women portrayed by the Paris-born photographer seem to live inside a film noir, in which an unexplored psychological abyss emerges.
The magical realism of these photographs creates almost surreal settings, where you can’t tell where the light is coming from and where the objects that furnish the room are never where you would expect to find them. The loneliness shrouded in darkness is disturbing, from the aridity only the natural eroticism of the bodies is saved, rendered through poses that enhance anatomical angles and body tensions.

After entering the rooms of this hotel, you can check out all of JF Julian’s projects on Instagram or on the artist’s website.

Models:
Silvy
Katrina
Sofia
Ephelis

JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian | Collater.al
JF Julian photos are a passe partout
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JF Julian photos are a passe partout
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InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

Giulia Guido · 1 week ago · Photography

Every day, on our Instagram profile, we ask you to share with us your most beautiful pictures and photographs.
For this InstHunt collection of this week we have selected your 10 best proposals: @laurapasini3, @valerycia, @boryskulikovskyi, @polae.jpg, @paola_francesca_barone, @vrtivstic, @laura.mangelli, @nicole_depergola, @defalcotina, @jesuis_claire.

Tag @collateral.photo to be selected and published on the next InstHunt.

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
Photography
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
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Why aren’t you here tonight?

Why aren’t you here tonight?

Tommaso Berra · 1 week ago · Photography

Impossible to fall asleep, the thought of the other night is pushing in, gripping my stomach with five fingers.
I just wanted to fuck him and now I’m already addicted to the power with which he held my neck. I can still feel the contact between his warm chest and my shivering back, I miss him a little.
There have been nights of which I have confused memories, lost among a thousand useless details, but now I have a clear idea of what I have been denied in this room paved with parquet and adorned with a few plants. I try to fill the lacks, making my body remember gentle gestures, gentle because they seek my lifeblood, they reach up to see the violence of my thoughts.

Paulina Masenina‘s photos are the story, illustrated and written, of an unfulfilled sexual desire. An erotic and desperate journey of a need for mental and physical contact. The bed is still empty, the room desolate, in the head considerations of a night gone wrong: “How many orgasm missed?“, “I can’t breathe thinking of us not fucking in this bed“.

Discover HERE all the shots by Paulina Masenina.

Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
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