Living works by Neri Oxman

Living works by Neri Oxman

Chiara Sabella · 1 year ago · Design

Architecture, design, and its rules have outlined a way of thinking over time, which Neri Oxman and her research team at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology in Boston question from a sustainable perspective.

It all starts from an elementary intuition “In nature there is no separation between design, engineering and production: bone does all of that.” With these words, the Israeli architect speaks of a transversal commitment that looks to biological principles to inaugurate a new season of design research.

In her studio the concepts of assembly line and construction by assembly are abandoned to open up to a production that literally makes materials grow in the laboratory. Here thanks to the modification of certain parameters, nature is engineered and the project becomes a living structure, in contiuunum with the environment that hosts it.

The work by MIT researchers exploits technological innovations in the fields of digital fabrication and materials engineering, together with computational design, which makes it possible to arrive at complex structures starting from simple formulas, and synthetic biology, which acts on DNA to create new biological functions. These are the tools by which the designer imagines and designs buildings that grow like organisms, clothes for interplanetary travel in environments hostile to humans and other ideas that seem to belong to a science fiction future, which is today.

In this future, Material Ecology is a reality and materials such as chitin, naturally produced by shrimp, crabs, butterflies and other organisms replace plastic in visionary projects.
Biodegradable and innovative structures such as the Silk Pavilion, a dome built thanks to the workforce of 6500 silkworms. The animals created the work by naturally following the structure outlined by the computer, with variations in thickness, density and therefore resistance of the material, thanks to the control of light. A new opportunity for production, beyond the futuristic building, which does not imply the killing of worms for the realization of fabrics.

No field remains excluded from the team research that arrives on the runway with the collection Wanderers, An Astrobiological Exploration. Garments are made to allow humans to obtain nutrients from their clothes and live on planets or hostile environments. Like a second skin, the pieces are inspired by the human body and contain cyanobacteria, which turn light into sugar, and Escherichia, which make sugar a biofuel suitable for us.

Bioluminescent organisms, bees, plant and animal structures become structural elements of human productions. In the Neri team, organic design reaches an advanced level, going beyond the imitation of nature to its collaboration, in view of a tomorrow – which is today – that requires sustainable perspectives in a collective effort.

Alongside the new opportunities in the means of production, it is fundamental to accompany a methodological rethinking – affirms Neri Oxman – that sees in the encounter between science, biology, design and art the formula to accelerate the change that our planet demands.

In her essay The Age of Entanglement, the architect outlines Krebs’ Creative Cycle, a process that transforms information into knowledge, utility and behavior. Here science and humanities feed off each other, as nature does.

The MIT team is a testament to how the buildings and products we are used to are not a direct expression of the ferment of contemporary architecture and design.

In this regard, Paola Antonelli, curator of the Department of Architecture and Design at MoMa in New York, sees in Neri Oxman’s work a double value and meaning. Firstly the engineering of nature, which revises the tools and the result of the project, and secondly the arrival at a formal synthesis, with a complete aesthetic profile, capable of representing today’s design opportunities.

Article by Chiara Sabella

Living works by Neri Oxman
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Living works by Neri Oxman
Living works by Neri Oxman
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Jared Leto will be Karl Lagerfeld in a biopic about the French couturier

Jared Leto will be Karl Lagerfeld in a biopic about the French couturier

Andrea Tuzio · 2 months ago · Style

According to WWD, Jared Leto will play visionary French couturier Karl Lagerfeld in a biopic produced by Paradox, the production company of Emma Ludbrook and Leto himself, along with the House of Karl Lagerfeld foundation.

The film’s executive producers will be the designer’s close collaborators Pier Paolo Righi, Caroline Lebar and Sébastien Jondeau. All three of these key figures in Lageferld’s life have held prominent roles in the French fashion designer’s work for more than 20 years, so who better than them to assist Leto in making the film. 

For now, there are no details regarding the plot of the film, but what is known is that the focus will be on what was Lagerfeld’s inner circle through a unique point of view.

“Karl had a career that spanned 50-plus years so both personally and professionally he was close to a number of people. I can say we are going to home in on key relationships that convey different parts of his life”, Leto said in the exclusive interview with WWD.

Over the years, we have been approached by several Hollywood producers who suggested to partner on a movie about Karl’s iconic life, Pier Paolo Righi said in a statement released by Deadline. “It has been only since we met Jared and Emma that we felt truly confident about the story being told in the artistic way Karl would have loved to see. Throughout our conversations, we have created an equally trustful and inspiring creative relationship that will allow us to work together very fluidly on this beautiful project”.

All we have to do is wait!

Jared Leto will be Karl Lagerfeld in a biopic about the French couturier
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Jared Leto will be Karl Lagerfeld in a biopic about the French couturier
Jared Leto will be Karl Lagerfeld in a biopic about the French couturier
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Rosalía is the new face of Acne Studios

Rosalía is the new face of Acne Studios

Andrea Tuzio · 2 months ago · Style

For three years now, Rosalía has been one of the strongest artists on the face of the earth. 
After eight Latin Grammys, ten number-one singles in Spain, your still-ongoing worldwide and her own radio station in Grand Theft Auto Online, the Spanish singer has become the new face of Acne Studios’ new Fall/Winter 2022 campaign.

Shot and filmed by Dutch photographer Paul Kookier, the campaign consists of a series of very intimate shots where the Spanish artist is immortalized as a true muse. 

 

 
 
 
 
 
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“When I pose for a photographer, I always try to be myself but also try to channel an energy”, explained Rosalía who added: ”What appealed to me the most about working with Paul [Kooiker] was that he has an atemporal style, his pictures could have been taken when photography was invented. But, at the same time, he transmits a freshness of the moment. His pictures are badass”.

“I love how bold but elegant everything is. To me, Acne Studios is a brand that takes care with the fabrics, the colors, the textures – everything is so well thought through, impeccable and fresh”, Rosalía said about the Swedish brand.

“The campaign tried to capture Rosalía in a way she is rarely seen”, explained Kookier, who then added: “While shooting the videos, I discovered that her movements were so strong and confident that we continued this way of working for the stills. The approach was to shoot the contemporary collection in a timeless and historical atmosphere”.

Rosalía is the new face of Acne Studios
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Palace’s infamous product descriptions in a book

Palace’s infamous product descriptions in a book

Andrea Tuzio · 2 months ago · Style

Palace is set to release Drop 2 of Fall 2022, scheduled for Friday, Oct. 14
In addition to the classic outerwear, sweatshirts, T-shirts, caps, and pants, the British skateboard brand has unveiled a book destined to become an absolute cult among fans, the title is Palace Product Descriptions: The Selected Archive

Published by Phaidon,the book was edited entirely by Palace founder Lev Tanju and is the official, printed archive of the infamous online product descriptions. Since its inception, Palace has always used descriptions that often had nothing to do with the product itself and were totally out of context and decidedly unconventional, chock-full of humor, social satire, strong opinions, and no-nonsense.

The Edinburgh-born writer, poet and literary critic Sam Buchan-Watts, was asked to write the preface, who, in the very preface to Palace Product Descriptions: The Selected Archive, scrive: “Ludwig Wittgenstein claimed that a serious philosophical work could be written entirely of jokes: we might now add product descriptions”.

Divided by points and strictly all in capital letters, the book consists of more than 3,000 descriptions divided into 22 sui generis categories, such as: “anatomy,” “animals,” “etiquette,” “philanthropy,” “romance,” “travel,” and many others, plus product photos of course. 

Palace Product Descriptions: The Selected Archive will be available starting October 14 from both Palace’s web shop and Phaidon’s website for €40.

Palace’s infamous product descriptions in a book
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Supreme and The North Face rocked again

Supreme and The North Face rocked again

Andrea Tuzio · 2 months ago · Style

Right on time like every year these days, came the new collaboration between Supreme and The North Face for the seventh drop of Fall 2022 from the skateboard brand founded by James Jebbia.

Unlike the previous collabs, however, this one seems to have something more in all aspects, both at the creative and communicative level and from a materials point of view. 
The choice made by the two brands involved was to go digging into old joint ventures and restore contemporaneity to the aesthetic choices made in previous years. 

In the Supreme/The North Face Fall 2022 collection we find the fur print of the Nuptse from Fall 2013, or the map print from Spring/Summer 2014 and then again paisley, camo, denim in short, a look at the past but projecting everything into the future.

This collection represents The North Face’s first release under the creative direction of Tremaine Emory, and the direction taken is immediately apparent. 
The collaboration winks at the world of motocross, but all the garments in the collection can be worn regardless of context and look flawless perfectly within the contemporary urban context. 

The Fall 2022 Supreme/The North Face collaboration will be released online and in Supreme stores on Thursday, October 13.

Supreme and The North Face rocked again
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Supreme and The North Face rocked again
Supreme and The North Face rocked again
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