Magliano and Indelicato: two Italian brands portraying an all-male universe

Magliano and Indelicato: two Italian brands portraying an all-male universe

Collater.al Contributors · 3 years ago · Art, Style

We have already witnessed explorations of female archetype of all types, shapes and colors. The concept of masculinity, its vulnerability and its sexual connotations, instead, are still left unexplored to a certain extent in Italy. However, in the last few years, designers tend more and more to let their personal and intimate experiences inspire them and tell us their perspectives through collections that hold complex narratives behind them.

It is the case of Luca Magliano and Nicola Indelicato, two designers from the north of Italy that, even though in different ways, give a precise shape and style to their conception of man. The two designers, don’t just introduce us to the male world but they do it focusing on the main fulcrum of human passion and vulnerability: love.

Magliano

Designer from Bologna, alumni of L.UN.A(Libera Università delle Arti) and collaborator at Arcari & Co (that also includes brands like HACHE and Ter et Batine). After having started his career in Milan interning at Alessandro dell’Acqua, Luca Magliano goes back to Bologna, his base, where he manages to find the perfect urban format between shared places and varied political space.

In 2016 he launched his brand Magliano, born from the need to challenge the essential garments of the Italian male wardrobe. His collections, attributed with an Italian quintessence, set as starting point the provincial ceremony suits belonging to an end of millennium fashion and the goodSunday suit. A silhouette he is fascinated by, since it belongs to a “real” context, which is revisited, exaggerated and deconstructed. After his collection “For the enamoured man”, winner of the Who is on next? Prize at Pitti Uomo 93, his SS19 collection dresses male iconic identities like the latin lover, the bully and the Neapolitan scugnizzo. It wasn’t hard to deduct, he is passionate about Italian cinema classics signed by Pasolini or De Sica, and novels by Tondelli and Calasso.

Magliano e Indelicato I due brand italiani che ci proiettano in un universo tutto al maschile | Collater.al 4Magliano e Indelicato I due brand italiani che ci proiettano in un universo tutto al maschile | Collater.al 6

Ph: Gio Corabi

Nicola Indelicato

Born and raised in Florence, with Sicilian parents and uncles coming from Greece and Turkey, Nicola Indelicato has got all the nuances of Mediterranean identity in his blood. After having accomplished a Masters degree at Polimoda in Florence, where he teaches today, he started his career in the industry working at Vivienne Westwood and Roberto Cavalli to then establish his own label in 2016. Today, he lives between Istanbul and Florence and his constant seems to be the void of joining different worlds and concepts under one sphere. This need comes from his multicultural background, which taught him not to be scared of personal differences but to accept them. Practically, this translates into the juxtaposition of different materials like cotton and lace, or denim and PVC. Through the tactile element, and especially the visual one, Indelicato opens a debate on the sexual theme related to the new generations: they are bombarded by extremely sexual images online and don’t feel the need of personal interaction to get satisfied. His references vary from skate world of the 90s, to the Christian-catholic dimension, everything comes together in a clothing and hosiery collection characterized by oversized logos and graphics that leave little space to personal imagination.

Magliano e Indelicato I due brand italiani che ci proiettano in un universo tutto al maschile | Collater.al 20Magliano e Indelicato I due brand italiani che ci proiettano in un universo tutto al maschile | Collater.al 24

Text by  Enrica Miller

Magliano and Indelicato: two Italian brands portraying an all-male universe
Art
Magliano and Indelicato: two Italian brands portraying an all-male universe
Magliano and Indelicato: two Italian brands portraying an all-male universe
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Cinematography – Normal People

Cinematography – Normal People

Giordana Bonanno · 2 days ago · Photography

If we think about our past, are we able to scan our lives through a plot? I personally find it a bit difficult, what I remember vividly is always accompanied by a feeling, by an emotional state that, beautiful or bad, has enclosed a set of days or moments. Yet we idealize the design of a life in time bands with childhood, adolescence, “middle” adulthood, “advanced” adulthood, etc.. But do we really need to divide the years in this way or are we just trying to justify the ages through this idea? Normal People, the TV series directed by Lenny Abrahamson, made me think about a few things and realize that maybe there’s nothing normal about people, or maybe it’s all too normal.

Released during the summer of 2020, the series is based on the second novel by Irish author Sally Rooney and tells the story of Marianne and Connell, two young people who attend the same high school. His mother works as a housekeeper in the Sheridan’s big house. Connell is a popular athlete and the bright student everyone looks up to. Marianne is “uncool,” grumpy and rebellious despite an impeccable high school career. From this premise, it’s as if we can already have a clear picture of the two guys’ plans, know their lives and even imagine the end. But while all this might be true, the only thing we’ll need to know is that the plot is a secondary source. The story, theirs, is not driven by the events that sanction the beginning and happy ending of something, but by the emotional peaks of the two characters who learn about themselves in the difficulties and moments of discouragement. 

And if the dialogues help us to understand them better, their gestures will be the culmination in which all thoughts will converge; it will seem to us to have lived those sensations and we will almost want to try them again. 

The physical touch allows Marianne and Connell to show emotional vulnerability that is otherwise given to them with incredible difficulty. Ita O’Brien, who helped coordinate these scenes, is the author of a set of guidelines on how to ethically stage erotic scenes; she was the one who helped film another sex-positive modern series, “Sex Education.” Director Abrahamson and coordinator O’Brian wanted the sex in the show to feel open, normal and natural, and somewhat equal to any dialogue-this approach almost literally quotes the way Rooney herself handles the subject matter in the book. And director of photography Susie Lovell says that the main reference on set in terms of nudity and color solutions was a candid series of photographs by Nan Goldin

Speaking of which, it’s worth noting how the visual solutions rhyme with a detached style of storytelling: blue tones even on hot summer days, delicate macro photography and a tactile approach to the set design, heavy curtains, velvet or velvet pleasant to the touch, woolen sweaters, textured bedding, peeling on the ceiling wet locks adhered to the forehead. Where the show lacks depth, it makes up for it with an enveloping atmosphere. Sometimes it’s hard to believe that the episodes last only half an hour – for a story where formally little happens, the experience is very intense. 

Simple but visually striking scenes reminiscent of the work of photographer Julien Lallouette. Born in 1991, Julien is a French art director and photographer, born in Le Havre, and based in London. In addition to commercial work, Julien does personal projects where she focuses on one person at a time. His delicacy lies in leaving space for the subject, to tell someone’s story through the habits and gestures trapped in the photos. Visiting her site you can find different series of shots, each dedicated to a different person and titled with the name of the protagonist. Friends, acquaintances, but also models are portrayed in domestic and intimate environments where they have the freedom to show themselves as they really are.

The question most remains this: are we all perfect or are we just imperfectly normal people? Sally Rooney says “what if we admit extreme individualism is unsustainable and try to find the meaning of life in a variety of contacts with others?” What we seek is the possibility of being ourselves while remaining close to others.

Did you know: After filming wrapped, Paul Mescal gave his character’s signature chain necklace as a gift to Daisy Edgar-Jones.

Genre: Romance

Director: Lenny Abrahamson

Director of photography: Suzie Lavelle

WritersSally Rooney, Alice Birch, Mark O’Rowe

Stars: Paul Mascal, Daisy Edgar-Jones

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Cinematography – Normal People
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InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

Giulia Guido · 1 day ago · Photography

Every day, on our Instagram profile, we ask you to share with us your most beautiful pictures and photographs.
For this InstHunt collection of this week we have selected your 10 best proposals: @maggienelcaos, @alessandrascoppetta, @chia_riccio, @kiddosstufff, @obsessive.ph0t0graphy, @alessandro_zenok_lombardo, @vrtivstic, @mariyaleksa_ph, @ne.photogra.ph, @naya_december.

Tag @collateral.photo to be selected and published on the next InstHunt.

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
Photography
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
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InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

Giulia Guido · 1 week ago · Photography

Every day, on our Instagram profile, we ask you to share with us your most beautiful pictures and photographs.
For this InstHunt collection of this week we have selected your 10 best proposals: @laurapasini3, @valerycia, @boryskulikovskyi, @polae.jpg, @paola_francesca_barone, @vrtivstic, @laura.mangelli, @nicole_depergola, @defalcotina, @jesuis_claire.

Tag @collateral.photo to be selected and published on the next InstHunt.

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
Photography
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
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Why aren’t you here tonight?

Why aren’t you here tonight?

Tommaso Berra · 1 week ago · Photography

Impossible to fall asleep, the thought of the other night is pushing in, gripping my stomach with five fingers.
I just wanted to fuck him and now I’m already addicted to the power with which he held my neck. I can still feel the contact between his warm chest and my shivering back, I miss him a little.
There have been nights of which I have confused memories, lost among a thousand useless details, but now I have a clear idea of what I have been denied in this room paved with parquet and adorned with a few plants. I try to fill the lacks, making my body remember gentle gestures, gentle because they seek my lifeblood, they reach up to see the violence of my thoughts.

Paulina Masenina‘s photos are the story, illustrated and written, of an unfulfilled sexual desire. An erotic and desperate journey of a need for mental and physical contact. The bed is still empty, the room desolate, in the head considerations of a night gone wrong: “How many orgasm missed?“, “I can’t breathe thinking of us not fucking in this bed“.

Discover HERE all the shots by Paulina Masenina.

Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
Paulina Masenina | Collater.al
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