We have already witnessed explorations of female archetype of all types, shapes and colors. The concept of masculinity, its vulnerability and its sexual connotations, instead, are still left unexplored to a certain extent in Italy. However, in the last few years, designers tend more and more to let their personal and intimate experiences inspire them and tell us their perspectives through collections that hold complex narratives behind them.
It is the case of Luca Magliano and Nicola Indelicato, two designers from the north of Italy that, even though in different ways, give a precise shape and style to their conception of man. The two designers, don’t just introduce us to the male world but they do it focusing on the main fulcrum of human passion and vulnerability: love.
Designer from Bologna, alumni of L.UN.A(Libera Università delle Arti) and collaborator at Arcari & Co (that also includes brands like HACHE and Ter et Batine). After having started his career in Milan interning at Alessandro dell’Acqua, Luca Magliano goes back to Bologna, his base, where he manages to find the perfect urban format between shared places and varied political space.
In 2016 he launched his brand Magliano, born from the need to challenge the essential garments of the Italian male wardrobe. His collections, attributed with an Italian quintessence, set as starting point the provincial ceremony suits belonging to an end of millennium fashion and the goodSunday suit. A silhouette he is fascinated by, since it belongs to a “real” context, which is revisited, exaggerated and deconstructed. After his collection “For the enamoured man”, winner of the Who is on next? Prize at Pitti Uomo 93, his SS19 collection dresses male iconic identities like the latin lover, the bully and the Neapolitan scugnizzo. It wasn’t hard to deduct, he is passionate about Italian cinema classics signed by Pasolini or De Sica, and novels by Tondelli and Calasso.
Ph: Gio Corabi
Born and raised in Florence, with Sicilian parents and uncles coming from Greece and Turkey, Nicola Indelicato has got all the nuances of Mediterranean identity in his blood. After having accomplished a Masters degree at Polimoda in Florence, where he teaches today, he started his career in the industry working at Vivienne Westwood and Roberto Cavalli to then establish his own label in 2016. Today, he lives between Istanbul and Florence and his constant seems to be the void of joining different worlds and concepts under one sphere. This need comes from his multicultural background, which taught him not to be scared of personal differences but to accept them. Practically, this translates into the juxtaposition of different materials like cotton and lace, or denim and PVC. Through the tactile element, and especially the visual one, Indelicato opens a debate on the sexual theme related to the new generations: they are bombarded by extremely sexual images online and don’t feel the need of personal interaction to get satisfied. His references vary from skate world of the 90s, to the Christian-catholic dimension, everything comes together in a clothing and hosiery collection characterized by oversized logos and graphics that leave little space to personal imagination.
Text by Enrica Miller