Style Subcultures and Syd Brak in Martine Rose’s SS22 shots

Subcultures and Syd Brak in Martine Rose’s SS22 shots

Andrea Tuzio

A journey of love in the subcultures of the late twentieth century in which Martine Rose and the 3 photographers who shot the Spring/Summer 2022 collection of the Jamaican-British designer, have managed to express vibes that are dormant only in appearance but in reality will be those that will dominate 2022.

If the 90s and Y2K fashion were the main trends of 2021, this 2022 could be the year of aesthetics linked to the subcultures that marked the end of the 20th century: gabber, rave, acid house, etc.. All these countercultural movements have had a decisive impact on many aspects of society such as design, cinema, music and of course fashion. 

Martine Rose’s exciting SS22 is enhanced by the campaign shot by Rosie Marks, Sharna Osborne and Camille Vivier who together manage to bring out the inspirations and underground references that have driven Martine Rose’s creative verve since 2007, the year the brand was founded: a deep interest in music, a strong focus on London’s melting-pot culture, family and community.

The London-based designer’s distinctive aesthetic is characterized by a constant study of proportion and silhouette, unexpected textures and fabrics, and a continuous reference to subcultural contexts. There is a strong tension between attraction and resistance to menswear codes. His exploration of masculinity, the sensuality of the collections and sensitivity to character and mood fully define his work. 

The protagonists of the campaign are in fact ravers, gabbers and acid housers but we also find another, a sort of hidden tribute to Syd Brak, one of the most influential artists of the 80s. 
An illustrator originally from South Africa who was forced to flee his country together with his wife Marah because of his political ideas and tenacious opposition to apartheid.

At the time of his forced move to London, Brak had already enjoyed great success in his homeland in the world of advertising, but it was in the English capital that the illustrator, now deceased, created works with a strong impact and extremely seductive, making him one of the most popular illustrators in the world. His poster “The Long Distance Kiss” is the best-selling poster in history and he has worked for companies such as Coca-Cola, MSN and Levi’s as well as having created covers for authentic writing gurus such as Ken Follett, Wilbur Smith and John Grisham.

Spring/Summer 2022 will be available on Martine Rose’s website by the end of January.

Written by Andrea Tuzio
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