Some focus on technology, others on colors, still others on reproductions of scenarios and places of the world. At Paris Fashion Week we saw the new collections of some of the Maisons and brands that we love the most, which in addition to presenting sartorial masterpieces, have created made and finished shows, where an old friend of fashion, art, peeped out.
Thom Browne
If ten years ago you missed Thom Browne’s show in Florence, don’t despair, the same show was presented again in the French capital, including the group of workers, in suits and ties, sitting at their desks.
Off-White
Virgil Abloh, to present his collection, thought of a huge chessboard (perhaps reminiscent of the famous texture of Louis Vuitton), on which models move and cross as if they were walking down the street. A road of which we would like to be part.
Dior
Feminism is the keyword! In fact, the set of the show was curated by Tomaso Binga, aka Bianca Pucciarelli, who has lent perhaps one of her most famous works, Alfabetiere murale. The hall that hosted the catwalk was entirely covered with photos of her nude body that takes the form of the letters of the alphabet.
Miu Miu
British artist Sharna Osborne created the set for Miu Miu’s fashion show, which, after several experiments, created a mix of elements, from the brand’s old campaign photos to almost meaningless video clips. The result is futuristic, almost hallucinated, but absolutely perfect.
Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent also managed to give its show a futuristic air, thanks to an impeccable use of lights and reflections that, at first, created a classic and very elegant atmosphere, but then transformed it into a kind of fluo party, highlighting the best of the latest creations presenting.
Kenzo
Kenzo’s show, rather than a parade, was a real staging. Director Partel Oliva collaborated with choreographers Paul Sadot and Nqobilé Danseur to create a show in which the garments were worn by dancers dancing between rows of stands that moved mechanically, following the rhythm of the music.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton, we quote it simply because not to mention it would be like committing a crime, but in this case, no work of art or installation was created, rather a place was sought that would fit perfectly into the collection, and has been found in the famous Centre Pompidou. A fashion show to absolutely watch!
Jacquemus
Jacquemus has succeeded in giving back something that we profoundly need at this time, the air of summer. For the show was recreated a scenario that screams Provence, but also Sicily and the sea, sun, ice cream and Relax. I already hear the sound of the waves crashing on the rocks.
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Chanel
Last, and this time it’s worth saying it, but not least. Paris Fashion Week ended with Chanel’s first fashion show without Karl Lagerfeld. The show was always staged at the Grand Palais, which for the occasion became a real snowy village, with wooden chalets from which the models came out a bit excited and a bit touched.
In addition to the right minute of silence, the most touching moment was the closing, when all the models walked on the catwalk and in the air resounded David Bowie’s Heros. Shivers. Tears.
