Phoebe Philo has presented the first collection of her eponymous brand in a debut release that the company calls “Edit”: the first step of three online releases that will continue from here until spring 2024, but that’s not all. It’s a seasonless collection that aims to reflect the concept of permanence. From this highly anticipated initial launch, the bags have certainly caught our attention, released in three silhouettes, all in leather and suede, distinguished by minimalist lines and a look that screams quiet luxury, from the XL Cabas Tote to the Gig Bag and the Small Kit Cabas. But let’s take a step back in time and, with a bit of nostalgia, rediscover all the hit bags designed by Phoebe Philo.
Philo has accomplished a remarkable feat: building a fanbase consisting of Instagram accounts and collectors. The latter are engaged in the quest for pieces from Céline collections (now without the acute accent) from 2008 to 2018, the golden era of the French house under the artistic direction of Phoebe Philo. @phoebephilodiary and @phoebephiloarchive are just two of the many profiles dedicated to the most desired and beloved pieces by Philophiles, fans of the English designer.
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Returning to the bags, the Box Bag, the Trapeze, the Phantom Luggage, the Sangle, and the Boston are unforgettable. Also, it’s impossible not to include the Trio in this list. All key bags from her decade at Céline. But going even further back, to Philo’s years at Chloé, there is a bag that has literally made the history of It Bags: the Paddington. A functional bag with a rounded shape that stands out for the bulky lock on the front.
The story of the Paddington Bag: the bag of the Naughties
The story of this It Bag is truly intriguing: Philo introduced leather accessories in Spring/Summer 2005, having the bag strategically worn by many celebrities who were continuously photographed by paparazzi. All of this happened before the arrival of the Paddington in stores. The goal was to make it the object of desire for all the women on the waitlist eagerly awaiting to purchase it, to the point of causing concern among the security staff at Chloé boutiques when the bag arrived in stores. The insight of the English designer lay in her innovative bag designs, even during her time at Chloé, and simultaneously ushering in the era of It Girls.
@documoda #itbag #chloe #chloepaddington #phoebephilo #phoebephilochloe #documoda #early2000sfashion #early2000s #fashionhistory #theitbag ♬ Soft Rain – Elvitobeats
In short, Phoebe Philo’s return reminds us of how much of a key figure she has been in the world of fashion since the early 2000s. And not just thanks to her tenure as creative director at Céline. Her fanbase (and the rest of the fashion world) eagerly awaited the release of this new collection, signaling the start of a new adventure for the English designer, finally on her terms.
