Giorgio Armani’s letter to the fashion world

Giorgio Armani’s letter to the fashion world

Andrea Tuzio · 1 month ago · Style

A reflection, a redefinition of priorities, an overthrow of those dogmas that seemed granite and indestructible and that instead, the pandemic that the world is facing has implacably subverted.
These, in essence, are the ideas that Giorgio Armani expressed in a letter sent last week to Women’s Wear Daily, better known as WWD (the fashion bible).
Re Giorgio lays down the guidelines that must, of necessity, guide the fashion industry towards a new reality made of priorities, slowing down the mad pace that fashion has had for years. An outburst full of awareness but at the same time looking to the future to design a new beginning.

The beauty of Giorgio Armani’s words lies in the fact that they can be declined for so many aspects of life that we will face once this emergency is over, a life of reconsideration and revaluation, because, most likely, we will never return to what everyone calls normality but which, perhaps, was the only habit. 

Here is the text of the letter:

“The decline of the fashion system, as we know it, started when the luxury sector adopted the fast fashion operating mode with the continuous delivery cycle, hoping to sell more…I don’t want to work like this anymore, it’s immoral. It doesn’t make sense that one of my jackets, or one of my suits live in the store for three weeks, become immediately obsolete, and are replaced by new merchandise, which is not too different from the one that preceded it. I don’t work like that. I find it immoral to do so. I’ve always believed in an idea of timeless elegance, in making clothes that suggest only one way to buy them: that they last over time. For the same reason I find it absurd that in the middle of winter, in boutiques, there are linen clothes and in summer, alpaca coats, for the simple reason that the desire to buy must be satisfied immediately. Who buys clothes to put them in a closet waiting for the right season to wear them? No one, or a few, I think. But this system, driven by department stores, has become the dominant mentality. Wrong, we have to change, this has to stop. This crisis is a wonderful opportunity to slow everything down, to realign everything, to draw a more authentic and true horizon. No more spectacularization, no more waste. For three weeks I’ve been working with my teams to ensure that, after the lockdown, the summer collections remain in the boutique at least until the beginning of September, as is natural. And that’s how we’re going to do it from now on. This crisis is also a wonderful opportunity to restore value to authenticity: no more fashion as a communication game, no more fashion shows around the world, just to present bland ideas. No more entertaining with great shows that today reveal themselves for what they are: inappropriate, and I also mean vulgar. No more parades all over the world, made through the journeys that pollute. No more wasting money on shows, they’re just brushstrokes of enamel on top of nowhere. The moment we are going through is turbulent, but it offers us the unique opportunity to fix what is wrong, to remove the superfluous, to find a more human dimension… This is perhaps the most important lesson of this crisis”.

Giorgio Armani’s letter to the fashion world
Style
Giorgio Armani’s letter to the fashion world
Giorgio Armani’s letter to the fashion world
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Andreas Levers and the mystery of the city at night

Andreas Levers and the mystery of the city at night

Giulia Guido · 7 days ago · Photography

While everyone is taking pictures of him working, while everyone is asleep he takes pictures. I’m talking about Andreas Levers, a photographer based in Potsdam who spends his nights in the streets of the city trying to capture their most mysterious and dark side. It’s not the first time we’ve talked about his series At Night, but after three years we were very happy to discover that Andreas didn’t get tired of this magical subject and kept shooting. 

The nights that attract the photographer the most are those dark, cold nights when the fog falls and covers the top floors of the skyscrapers and allows you to see only what is really close to you. The rest remains a mystery, amplified by the white lights of the street lamps and neon lights, unable to penetrate the mist. 

But while the light, of course, cannot reveal what is beyond the visible, our mind has already embarked on a fantastic journey: like Andreas Levers, we too walk in the dark, trying not to be seen, as if we were following someone, or as if someone were following us. 

The calm, the awareness of being alone, the only awakenings surround us and accompany us once again in scenarios that never lose their charm.

We hope that At Night will never end, that like us can’t wait to see the next picture, Andreas Levers can’t wait to go down the street, when the city falls asleep and the magic becomes reality. 

Check out the new shots from the At Night photo series below and to stay up to date on Andreas Levers’ work go to his website and follow him on Instagram

Andreas Levers and the mystery of the city at night
Photography
Andreas Levers and the mystery of the city at night
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Cinematography – The Grand Budapest Hotel

Cinematography – The Grand Budapest Hotel

Giordana Bonanno · 6 days ago · Photography

Friday is here, again, and this weekend we’ll have some time to dedicate to our favorite hobby: watch a movie. If you run out of ideas don’t worry, you won’t waste time because we have already chosen The Grand Budapest Hotel, a movie that everyone has seen once in their life, but two are always better than one.

It’s certainly Wes Anderson‘s most intricate and interesting film and most likely also the director’s aesthetic and narrative masterpiece. It won nine nominations at the Oscars in 2015, triumphing in the categories “Best Costume”, “Best Set Design“, “Best Makeup” and “Best Soundtrack”; at the Globe, instead, the film won as “Best Comedy or Music”.

(Still undecided whether to watch it?)

The story is certainly as bizarre as the characters in it, sometimes so intricate that it seems impossible to get out of it, yet there’s nothing impossible inside that mysterious hotel because everything is suspended in a surreal, earthly world.

Wes, with the director of photography Robert Yeoman, creates every single scene taking into account the most imperceptible details in order to produce perfect images even in the pause; the color choices are his strong point, all the films have a palette of reference so as to conquer memorability among the memories of anyone who has already seen them.

Colors play an important role since they determine two types of scenes: for the harmonious and calm ones the selection of soft and pastel colors prevails, while the pressing and alienating ones they appear under strong color combinations. Needless to say that photography represents the key element in the cinematographic realization and needless to say that in this Wes is its master.

There is no doubt: his aesthetic and artistic imagination is unique, but there are those who, letting themselves be inspired, have built their photographic work on a chromatic choice and framing at the limits of precision. This is the case of Teresa Freitas, a young Portuguese photographer who, through her shots, shows us common scenes with meticulous attention to the elements that build them, proposing something that perhaps we have already seen but never through this perspective.

Did you know: for the outdoor shots of the hotel Wes used a 3-meter-high scale model, made entirely by hand because if this had been done on the computer, in the director’s idea, it would have appeared to the audience too offset from reality.

Film: Comedy
Director: Wes Anderson
Writers: Stefan Zweig (inspired by the writings of), Wes Anderson (screenplay)
Stars: Ralph Fiennes, F. Murray Abraham, Mathieu Amalric

Cinematography – The Grand Budapest Hotel
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Cinematography – The Grand Budapest Hotel
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London in lockdown, photos of Jan Enkelmann

London in lockdown, photos of Jan Enkelmann

Emanuele D'Angelo · 6 days ago · Photography

When we think of London, we immediately think of a city with chaotic rhythms, frenetic and tireless, like any self-respecting modern capital. Because of the pandemic, however, everything came to a sudden halt almost suddenly.
Prime Minister Boris Johnson, following in the footsteps of his illustrious colleagues all over the world, has frozen the entire city until at least June, waiting for the contagion curve to slow down.

The English photographer Jan Enkelmann decided to document the deafening silence of his city, never seen before.
So on 23 March, the night the lockdown was announced, the photographer climbed on his bike to admire deserted London, never seen like this in 20 years of his life. A few weeks later, he took his camera with him and decided to capture the whole thing.

Like many others I felt compelled to document the lack of crowds in usually crowded locations. But looking at the set of images I have made over the last weeks, I feel this project has taken on a life of its own. Maybe these photos are less about the lack of human presence and rather about the stillness of a city being allowed a breather to reveal a beauty that often goes unnoticed.

London in lockdown, photos of Jan Enkelmann
Photography
London in lockdown, photos of Jan Enkelmann
London in lockdown, photos of Jan Enkelmann
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InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week

Giulia Guido · 6 days ago · Photography

Every day, on our Instagram profile, we ask you to share with us your most beautiful pictures and photographs. 
For this InstHunt collection of this week we have selected your 10 best proposals: @davidecannavo, @carla_sutera_sardo, @eyepyre, @m_streetphoto, @kei_scampa, @_hartemis, @matteotriola, @userid019, @wonmin.9, @erikaconlaci.

Tag @collateral.photo to be selected and published on next InstHunt.

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Broken nature Model: @mai_stanca

A post shared by Kei Scampa (@kei_scampa) on

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💦

A post shared by 최원민 WonMin Choi (@wonmin.9) on

InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
Photography
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
InstHunt – The 10 best photos on Instagram this week
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